These stupid crimps are doing my head in

bones

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There's those little flaps that are supposed to be protruding out a bit, these stop the crimp from pulling out. You can prise them out with a Stanley blade and yes they have to go in the right way round so the flaps pings into a cut out made for it.
 

M K L

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Someone above posted pliers that crimp both the conductor and the insulation parts at the same time. Nothing wrong with that but personally I prefer pliers that let you crimp the two separately. Why? Because once I do the conductor part, I pull the wire and if it doesn't come off I know the crimp is reliable. Then I can go ahead and crimp the insulation.
 

M K L

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My question was, by crimps, do you mean the tiny metal thingies that are squeezed, or the tool that squeezes them.
Yes, I tried soldering it, but I stick can't poke it into the housing.
Yes I was talking about the terminals. I can't say anything about your crimping tool except that I don't like that it's the type that does insulation and conductor at the same time.
 

Spanky

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Sorry but those crimps are not acceptable and shouldn't be used.

Those are JST VL terminals aren't they? If so they're some of the largest ones for arcade wiring. Here's how I crimped one of these terminals on a 1.5mmq (about 16AWG) wire with the Hozan P707 pliers:

View attachment 43001
Right, I've just taken delivery of a pair of these. They do look like the dog's bollocks. Can you tell me what gauge of wire you used in the picture above?
 

Spanky

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Right, half the problem was that I had the crimps the wrong way round I think.
These are officially the most irritating things in the universe.
I was quite proud of the red one, but none of the ones below will actually fit in the housing.

DSC07702.JPG
 
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cools

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Can't believe something so simple can be so convoluted.

Does this have swappable jaws? 99% of getting a clean crimp is selecting the correct size form for the pin and wire used. The other 1% is getting it straight in the crimper.

I'm probably doing it wrong, but I select the former by putting the pin in upside down to measure - if it sits cleanly without needing to be squeezed, thats the width I use. The height depends on the wire gauge.
 
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Does this have swappable jaws? 99% of getting a clean crimp is selecting the correct size form for the pin and wire used. The other 1% is getting it straight in the crimper.

I'm probably doing it wrong, but I select the former by putting the pin in upside down to measure - if it sits cleanly without needing to be squeezed, thats the width I use. The height depends on the wire gauge.

By the looks of the latest messages, he’s bought the hozan.

They all look like they’ve had too much pressure applied

It looks like the outer bit, pinching the flex is either too small, crimped upside down or not using the “m” / bum shaped slot at all

the little wings should be pointing upwards, they then curl into that m shape you want

Take about 5 and practice crimping in the slot that fits both right way up and what you think is upside down. If you have the right gauge of wire and crimp, they take next to no pressure.

When you push them with a lot of force, that’s when they start to bend.
 

JohnT

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So i got something like this from amazon a few years back (https://amzn.eu/d/bXClw6u) and they were ok for a bit but now just don't seem to crimp both parts effectively, bend the pin or get jammed/stuck and have to be levered out. I also find that I'm more often than not adding a bit of solder. I'd been thinking about some that are more like pliers (similar to the Hozan P707 pliers, but cheaper :LOL:)

1755937213286.png
 

JohnT

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ah ok thanks for the info, ill give the 707's - maybe it's a case of buy cheap, buy twice. Hopefully they'll do the job.
 
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