What to use on bottom of arcade cab?

[Mr Bond]

Hi all... a few of my cabs are a bit rough and sharp underneath. One even has small bolts underneath to hold the pedals on... not good on a nice floor! Lol. Does anyone on here put anything on the bottom of their cabs? Such as rubber matting?

I know where I can get loads of conveyor belting but might be difficult to mount underneath...

 

[TDE_Rich]

At my request RGP stuck battons to my Tempest and MC, and I did the same myself to my Centi after fixing up the chippy bits. It's simple but solid and much easier than farting around with new leg-levellers IMO. I can't imagine rubber matting is a good idea... you'll never be able to slide it anywhere!

 

[Mr Bond]

Yeah just thought of that.. way too much grip!

 

[simonden]

If I need to slide a cab across my (laminate) wooden floor, I just tuck a piece a laminate floor underlay on the bottom of the cab. Slides a treat.

 

[Kev A]

I use the cheap vinyl flooring tiles, the kind you get from B&Q, cut roughly to size turned upside down so the adhesive is facing upwards then tilt the cab and slide them under, protects against damp too.

 

[namfreak]

18mm x 44mm planed timber batten (or similar size!)

Cut 50mm shorter than front to back of cab

I screw 3 rails onto the underside, spaced equally

Then stick on those felt pads that are sold for the underside of furniture / chair legs

Makes sliding cab on tiled / wooden floors a cinch.

If on carpet, delete the felt pads

 

[aeroflott]

I've sanded the bottom of my cabs before now, to remove any rough bits of wood, then give it a varnish.

Those furniture glides are useful too - put one under each foot - job done.

 

[karlcdoe]

buy a sack truck with a second set of wheels that allow you to tip to ~ 45degrees, tip cab, install 6x 50kg / 50mm or larger castors. Purists won't like you but your back will in a few years if you move many of these things about. Gets a nice bit of airflow under the cab and makes repairs a lot easier too.

Or

just screw a couple of wood battens to the bottom as other say. It'll stop the cab bottom getting totalled.

karlcdoe2018-07-24 12:04:15

 

[ocb]

+1 for the slidy piano rated furniture glides.

I’ve drawn up the plans for an air glide (hovercraft) using a portable Dyson and a sturdy air cushion- just not had the time to get it made up and tested. When I do - maybe early next year - you lot on here will be my beta testers

 

[big10p]

I usually use large 'upholstery nails/studs'. Hammer one into each corner and job's a good 'un.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-24mm-diameter-headed-upholstery-nails-Furniture-fabric-studs-tacks-pins/300575189507?var=600017818758&hash=item45fbad6a03%3Ag%3Abw8AAOxyfyhRYCPW&_sacat=0&_nkw=large+chrome+hammer+in+studs&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

 

[Markitanis]

I use a square piece of carpet

 

[Mr Bond]

Which way did you screw em on? Width or length way?

 

[Mr Bond]

18mm x 44mm planed timber batten (or similar size!)

Cut 50mm shorter than front to back of cab

I screw 3 rails onto the underside, spaced equally

Then stick on those felt pads that are sold for the underside of furniture / chair legs

Makes sliding cab on tiled / wooden floors a cinch.

If on carpet, delete the felt pads

Which way you screw em on? Width or length ways?

 

[namfreak]

Running front to back works for me
So if the cabs are in a row and require moving for maintenance you can slide one forward out of the row

 

[funhouse]

18mm x 44mm planed timber batten (or similar size!)

Cut 50mm shorter than front to back of cab

I screw 3 rails onto the underside, spaced equally

Then stick on those felt pads that are sold for the underside of furniture / chair legs

Makes sliding cab on tiled / wooden floors a cinch.

If on carpet, delete the felt pads

Sounds good if you can rely on the strength of the internal wood.

Do you get any fixings into the sides of the cabinet too?

 

[namfreak]

Well this assumes you have a cabinet with good structural integrity to begin with

The softwood rails spread the weight of the cab over a larger surface area than the point loading of 4 small leg levellers

So if anything it spreads the weight more evenly over the baseboard

Not sure if I've understood you right but no I don't fix the rails into the sides. I just use countersunk screws drilled vertically up into the baseboard

 

[funhouse]

I'm only thinking of the old machines I've seen with the baseboard being made from either chipboard or plywood and only being held in place by some triangular wood glued against the vertical frame. It seems to me that baseboards were often really only made to be strong enough to hold the power supplies up.

The original leg levellers should have substantial strength (if well made!) because they were secured into two sides of the vertical cabinet and also rested on the baseboard corners.

I would say there is more strength in the vertical cabinet sides (if you can get a good fixing!)