Who can fix this monitor chassis for me

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Hi, looking for some one who can identify this monitor and for some one to fix it for me. I pulled it from my friends Nichibutsu Moon Cresta. there was a pop and the screen went into a little dot. I realise this will need a repair rather than just a cap kit. Any one? I have asked gunblade and he gave an indication that it might be a toei cm20 or something like that but not sure. He is not kitted up for this monitor any way, i normally send him my Sega Rally chassis. I can see HITACHI on the Tube

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Purity said:
It looks to me like a Toei CM-R20 aswell

ok thanks, after doing a search for Toei CM-R20, i saw in the images two similar chassis, CM-R14 and C14C

https://iankellogg.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=toei

Ian has the kit for all of them, it must be one of them.

So, just need to find some one with the ability to do the caps, fix the issue and to hook it up.

Frazer

blazerfrazer2017-11-21 13:35:32
 

Shun

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blazerfrazer said:
I have asked gunblade and he gave an indication that it might be a toei cm20 or something like that but not sure. He is not kitted up for this monitor any way

If you can't find anyone to fix it mate, would it be possible for Gunblade to fix it if he had the tube?

If so, perhaps you could use Redwing to send the tube and chassis off to him?
 

Purity

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The caps had leaked on mine, and eaten through the board, so needed quite a bit of repair. Would be interesting to know if yours is the same.

Gunblade said at the time:



that fault on the toei cm-r14 chassis is one for every owner to keep an eye on
there are a few solder tracks on the component side,they are not laquered so any kind of residue will rot through them over time

there were 4 break points all caused by the glue that was originally used to hold the capacitors in place

this
will happen with every one of these in time and it is not an obvious
fault,there was a bad solder joint on the chassis elsewhere-i don't
remember where

Purity2017-11-21 14:19:27
 

tb2000

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Yeah they're a bit of a pain to fix, i've not bothered with any of the ones i've got. Problem is that there's not much in the way of schematics available as far as I know, and they're not a very easy to understand design as far as the circuit goes (not for me anyway!
smiley36.gif
) Hanty's, WG's etc are much better designed really.
 

obcd

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If you turned it on after the plop, does it still show the dot or is it totally dead now?

Don't leave it on with the dot 2 long as the dot might burn into the fosfor of the tube and leave a permanent dot there. Turn down the brightness to prevent this, or just leave it one for a fraction of a second.

If you still see the dot, you know that your lopt is producing it's high voltage. Without the LOPT anode cap voltage, you don't see a thing.
 
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[1]Hi,
i had a good look all-round the lopt and couldn’t see any cracks or gunge
coming out. When it went pop i came running and switched the machine off, its
not been on again since, this was 6 months ago. Its a friends machine and i am
helping him sort it out, he is not internet savvy and i knew searching the
threads here and then asking you lot would get me going in the right direction.
The dot was still on the screen when i switched off so i guess the LOPT is
still working. What now, do i offer a reward to anyone that can fine me someone
who will take it on! lol, well not lol actually, i really would like to get
this working soon.

Thing is, i can do the cap kit but after the dot thing, this tells me it needs proper looking at, am i right? Ill get a cap kit on its way but speaking to gunblade (who is doing my G07 enduro racer board) he prefers to do all the work and not pick up where someone left of which is most understandable.
 

tb2000

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I can fix monitors also but I'm of the same opinion as gunblade where I'd rather start from scratch on a chassis. That said, if you can't find anyone else I could take a look at it but I couldn't give a timescale. I'd also need readings from the tube yoke and would need also to see what type of neck the tube has. It may be that you'd need to send the yoke to me with the chassis.
 
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Ok so i have a fall
back plan! which im probably to to gratefully take up the offer, let’s see if
anyone on here spots the thread over the next few days/weeks some one that’s
got the kit and setup ready etc. ill pm you with photos of the neck, hopefully
you won’t need the yoke as that means lots of tricky setup and positioning
after?

Frazer
 

M K L

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I've looked at the schematics in the manual and this is the C20C-5091, not the same as the CM-R20 (tube type/socket is also different).
M K L2017-11-23 08:47:41
 

t-m

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If you find someone let me know as I also have one that needs fixing. Gunblade can do it but i'd have to get the tube to him as well.
 
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