Scratched cocktail glass

John Bennett

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Good luck with the 'shitsui' as we used to call them at Currys.
We had a new 14" in the 1990's and it was so awful we eventually took it to the local repair shop who said 'that's just how it is'
 

Retroman839

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image.jpgI’m hopping to use tube only if poss ?
I just got it because i was at tip and it was there .

Will most likely use this nos on this project . Matsui will be for a chassi match up for another taito table .
 
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Retroman839

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image.jpg

Glass removedimage.jpg

I’m sure i read about these two holes before somewhere ?

Possible some p1 & p2 buttons on top ? Or for a marque?image.jpgimage.jpg
Proving hard to photo a scratch !
 
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Retroman839

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IMG_9873.jpegIMG_9872.jpegIMG_9871.jpeg
Now you see it

IMG_9870.jpeg

Now you don’t …

I found p120 was good to work with.

A bit of work but less coarse than the 80 grit that would in turn require more work in the next stages .
first stage done …
99 percent of scratches gone ;)

Stage 2 will be p240
Then 360
Then 500

Then final stage polish stage e3 cream
And polishing head .

Glad stage 1 is done as it’s the dusty stage whilst cutting all the glass off .
 

John Bennett

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I’m hopping to use tube only if poss ?
I just got it because i was at tip and it was there .

Will most likely use this nos on this project . Matsui will be for a chassi match up for another taito table .
What, you can rescue TVs from your tip?
Hope you can make something good out of it. You'd think a Phillips/LG tube would be ok - presumably the chassis wasn't working? (could've put the whole thing in otherwise and used SCART to connect to the games).
Thinking back, I might've been wrong too - it might've been a Goldstar TV that was unsalvageable (before they got better and became LG).
 

Retroman839

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What, you can rescue TVs from your tip?
Hope you can make something good out of it. You'd think a Phillips/LG tube would be ok - presumably the chassis wasn't working? (could've put the whole thing in otherwise and used SCART to connect to the games).
Thinking back, I might've been wrong too - it might've been a Goldstar TV that was unsalvageable (before they got better and became LG).
Yeh ..
If the guy is looking the other way ..
All other people including the actual recycling co..
Are happy for me to take .

But of a stickler guy likes to stop me
Some times ..

But I can normally get :)
 

Retroman839

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IMG_9893.jpeg
After p240
IMG_9898.jpegIMG_9906.jpeg
Above after p400

O yeh ..
I used medium speed in my sealy polishing rotary tool for the sanding
Up and down side to side etc .. cross hatch then diagonal ..
Then little circles .

Now to start the t cut with e3 clay based glass polish
IMG_9908.jpegIMG_9909.jpegIMG_9910.jpeg

Totally cover the polishing pad rubbing cream into pad with your finger ..

IMG_9912.jpeg
After a little polish total clarity has returned .
All micro scratches removed ..
Nice shiny glass cocktail top all original
:)
IMG_9915.jpeg
 

Retroman839

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Just to sum removing basterd scratches then .

Got a terribly scratched cocktail glass or the like .

And want it back to lovley
Again.

I’m recommending
Abranet® SIC NS. By Mirka

125mm size disc

Diffrent coarseness discs required for
1 table top glass is

P120 x2
P240 x2
P360x1
P400 x1
a hook and loop pad to your grinder for
The Abraham net silicone graphite discs to stick to .

E3 mirka polish and
A polishing head .


I went for a p120 rather than a really coarse p80 as this would require more work to polish back to clear again .

P120 was good worked well !
It was like using a rubber to rub scratches off the glass with a slightly raised edge of the tool .

Working the actual scratch then go back over the area with a flat disk to flatten off and work the whole area .

Hope that makes Sense :)

It’s a bit of work ..
And taking your time and working the whole glass left to right top to bottom flat ..

The discs are excellent ..

Don’t let the first step of cutting the glass put you off it the necessary first step to get a brand new layer of glass.

Always wear a mask as glass fiber is not nice to humans ..
And also always wear goggles too .

I worked on a dust sheet and kept all dust in the sheet then disposed of the sheet .
 
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Retroman839

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Wow, well done!
Thanks .
That’s lovely.
Did you have to work for long with the p120 to get the scratches out?

I would say an 45 mins to and hour on the glass for the first stage not including prep ..

To get a good unified flat total surface all ground down to the same
P120 texture .
Also doing it in good daylight helps.

So you can clearly see all the little bits you might miss in bad working light.


Then you will still most Likely see some little Bits of the worst scratches remaining .

So you
Just start again with an edge of the sander / grinding disk working like a pencil with a rubber directly on the scratch you will observe it Smooth away. Then as I said before just go over this area again a little in a circular motion working the area as you will smooth everything over .

The disc are quality ..
For the automotive and transport industry .. they work

Actually they work so well
They say don’t use these on windscreens for risk of implosion ..

So tube screens could be equally risky
 
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Retroman839

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It’s purchasing the pads that’s the stikler …

Mirka tend to sell them in packs of 10 minimum For each coarseness.

Full kit is £125
Worth it if you have more then one job as I could I would say do another
3 cocktail tops.
 

Retroman839

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Hey john ..
I have already got a few cabs with TVs I rescued from the top. :)
I made a donation to charity for
This tube which seemd to perused the site manager to allow me to re purpose it .


Thank you Tb2000 👍
sorted me a hanterex mtc900/e for this fidelity which I was well please to discover had a video colour tube which is a common used tube paired to hantarex .
 
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Retroman839

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With the glass sorted
Time to look at the faulty
Psu ..

image.jpg
Issue no -5v
No + 12
Symtom was no sound at all ..
Which led me to the psu after using continuity mode on the speaker to the jamma edge ..

First checked over visually
And what a quality psu !
And it was spotless

Then checked solder side of the pinout connector on the psu ..


image.jpg
Didn’t see anything here.

Then let’s look at the fuses ..





IMG_9935.jpeg

+12v & -5v are reading open short

Time to remove them and check them out of circuit .
 

Flyback2021

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Thanks .


I would say an 45 mins to and hour on the glass for the first stage not including prep ..

To get a good unified flat total surface all ground down to the same
P120 texture .
Also doing it in good daylight helps.

So you can clearly see all the little bits you might miss in bad working light.


Then you will still most Likely see some little Bits of the worst scratches remaining .

So you
Just start again with an edge of the sander / grinding disk working like a pencil with a rubber directly on the scratch you will observe it Smooth away. Then as I said before just go over this area again a little in a circular motion working the area as you will smooth everything over .

The disc are quality ..
For the automotive and transport industry .. they work

Actually they work so well
They say don’t use these on windscreens for risk of implosion ..

So tube screens could be equally risky
Mirka Abranet are the best sanding pads I have used . Long lasting and dust particles easily extracted through the mesh.
Really glad you had such good results with the process,
 
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