Pentranic chassis screen jumps

[Retroman839]

Need now to draw this on paper to have at hand

 

[Retroman839]

R318 . One leg (left leg with heat shield at back of chasiss ) out off the chassis to have jumper wire solderd onto it to the cathode of the diode .

 

[M K L]

You cannot solder the wire carrying 24V from D506 to the side of R318 that is still connected to the current power source.

 

[Retroman839]

Thanks mate.
Appreciate that ..
And a clash of powers source aint going to end well! And it is at the top of my mind on this ..

As I understand -
One leg needs to be lifted out of circuit.
I have it like this as I remeber Rick neim saying “leg of r318 closest to the d506 lifted out “

Also there is the B through hole grant you say I could use for my jumper wire also
If it is in circuit between c313 and d506 ..

But I seem to have a few spare pads here
R318 right leg in , left leg out …?

 

[M K L]

Looks correct to me. If you take a pic of solder side we can be sure.
As for D506, you can solder the jumper wire to any of the yellow points (cathode), best would be B. White points are the anode (connects to yellow pad near the switching trasformer (see my previous pic). And of course you need to put a diode there. The part number in the schematics (30DF4) is not familiar to me (probably somehing Chinese). You can use RGP10J or BA157. And don't forget C333 (1000uF 35V).

 

[Retroman839]

Looks correct to me. If you take a pic of solder side we can be sure.
As for D506, you can solder the jumper wire to any of the yellow points (cathode), best would be B. White points are the anode (connects to yellow pad near the switching trasformer (see my previous pic). And of course you need to put a diode there. The part number in the schematics (30DF4) is not familiar to me (probably somehing Chinese). You can use RGP10J or BA157. And don't forget C333 (1000uF 35V).
View attachment 57364

Thanks
For that 👍
Will be back t it Monday 😊