A bit of (Vewlix Dia) blue for the lads...

FrancoB

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I picked up a pair of Vewlix Dia Blues recently and a few people have asked me to post what I’m up to and I could do with some input along the way too so here goes. Feel free to skip the backstory and head for the pictures!

I wanted a pair of Vewlix’s, one hori and one tate so I don’t need to mess about rotating screens as they’re not the quickest thing to rotate. I contacted Mo @ Videotronics and he said he had loads of Vewlix C and F’s in stock and he said he had a few Blues left. I really like the look of the Blues so I arranged a date to go over and see them. I got a van booked as I planned on picking them up whilst I was there. A couple of days before I went up he found that he only had three left. I was a bit apprehensive of not having many to choose from but he sent me some pictures and I could see there was no major damage etc so I decided to continue as planned and make the journey up to him.

I set off at about 7.30am to the van hire place where I had booked a Luton with a tail lift from. I picked the van up, transferred a load of cushions/duvets into the van and set off to make the 160mile ~3hr drive from Bicester to Bradford. I got 15 minutes up the road in the van before realising I had left my tools and more importantly my ratchet straps in my car
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There was no way I was risking transporting the cabs without them so I turned round and went back to pick them up. Half an hour later I was back on the motorway but this time with the ratchet straps. I had given myself plenty of time to get up there so it wasn’t a problem. I had a steady drive up the M1 and had one stop at the services and got to Mos bang on when I should have been.

I’ve known Mo for years and have done work for him so it was great to put a face to a name. He showed me the three Blues he had left that were dotted around his unit. One of them had quite a green faded side panel which I can only assume was sun damage so that one was out of the equation for a start. That just left two but after a quick look over they both looked to be in pretty nice condition, I could see a few marks here and there but there was nothing to put me off which was a relief.

One of the cabs had a JVS IO and one had a Fast IO. I assumed they would both be Fast IO (tbh I’m not sure what they would have originally come with, I know the Blacks came with nothing) but actually I thought one of each would give me some flexibility.

Next was firing the cabs up. We fired the first one up with a TTX2 connected and one of the cab fans was really noisy, no biggie, that can be changed . We couldn’t see any sign of life on the monitor though, greeeeeat. We metered the power cable and there was 100v going to the end of the IEC C13 cable so it wasn’t that. We power cycled the cab and checked other connections but nada. We left that cab and headed over to the other non green cab. We turned that one on and the monitor turned on but it was showing ‘No Signal’. We messed around with the OSD but we couldn’t get anything to show. We then tried the TTX2 on a nearby Vewlix F and that displayed fine. We went back to the first cab and tried it again but we still didn’t get a picture. At this point the cab was still partially covered with wrapping film and the top corner of the screen was covered. Whilst bent down I power cycled the cab and noticed something on screen in the top corner. We pulled back the film and could see it said ‘FAN ERROR’ -_-

Mo had seen this before on a cab he sold to Tonybolony and after checking some messages we could see that the cab and monitor needed to be stripped down and in Tonys case the fan needed cleaning. We went back over to the other machine but we still couldn’t get a picture, even with a mobile test signal generator. After the initial relief of seeing the cabs in good nick I was a bit down thinking I might go home with an empty van. I had been at Mo’s ages at this point when it should have been a fairly quick test and load. We had a bit of a chat and came up with a plan. I decided I would take both of the cabs. It seems like at minimum the cab with the FAN ERROR would need some work. Mo knocked some money off for me for the trouble of dealing with that and said we would sort things out further if I couldn’t get either of the monitors working.

We loaded the cabs up and protected them with the duvets and cushions I had packed and tied them down with the ratchet straps. I’m so glad I went back for them as they would have got destroyed sliding around in the back of the van. I set off down south again after filling the van up again with some very expensive diesel at the height of the fuel shortage in March. I took a detour and stopped briefly at my parents in Lincoln to pick up a mountain bike and after a very wet drive home I got back at about 6.45pm. The tail lift made light work of unloading the cabs on my own and I put them in my garage where they would stay whilst I did some further tests, strip and clean them before taking them up to my office.

Here's a pic after dropping them off. I ordered a UK-JA0750 from Airlink and that been delivered whilst I was out so that was a nice bit of timing. Both cabs came with pictured original marquee holders and one manual.

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Whilst taking a closer look at the cabs I noticed that the serials were actually sequential!

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The cabs had been no where near each other at Mo’s and it had been pure luck that these were the two in the best nick and were chosen. I thought it was a nice touch that these two came of the production line one after the other and they were still together after travelling to the other side of the world.

The next day I hooked a laptop up the cab that didn’t have the FAN ERROR and I was pleased to see that I got an image straight away.

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Next up was stripping the cabs. I wanted to strip them to clean them and to also make them much lighter and smaller to take upstairs. I’ve got a 90 degree corner on my stairs and so I made a cardboard cut out of the foot print of a stripped cab to ensure I could get them upstairs prior to buying them.

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I used @Penrhos’s Vewlix disassembly guide (Part 1) (Part 2) to strip the cabs and I separated all of the bolts etc into marked bags to make assembly easier.

I stripped the cabs down as far as possible without removing the wiring looms in the base. These are the first Vewlix’s I’ve had and I wanted to keep the base wiring in whilst I get familiar with everything. I didn’t want to rip it all out and struggle to get it all back in and it would make troubleshooting trickier too. I wanted to get them out of the garage pretty quickly so I thought I could always strip the wiring out at a later date and clean the looms then if required.

I didn’t take many photos whilst stripping the cabs but they were pretty filthy on the inside. They were thick with dust and there was a lovely layer of nicotine where the fans had drawn air through the cabs.

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For cleaning the metal parts of the cabs I used [this] solvent free degreaser which worked really well and was cheap to boot. All of the plastics got a soapy wash in the sink.

I got a lift upstairs with the cabs and they were super easy to get up once stripped.

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Next up was looking at the monitor with the FAN ERROR. I stripped the monitor down and found the fan had missing blades which I'm guessing caused a change in the RPMs, or caused it to stop completely and the monitor then shut down. More details on this and the fix [here].

I assembled the cabs and stuck a X360 and Switch in for their first full frontal glamour shot:

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Note at this point the stepdown was just running the monitors, the consoles were powered via an additional extension lead out the back. I didn't have any audio setup and the controls were not connected, still it didn't stop me playing for a bit with a control pad
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The control panels still want stripping down and cleaning, I didn't have time to do that, I just needed to concentrate on getting the cabs out of the garage. I'll probably do that when I rewire the CPs.

The cabs have a few dings and scratches here and there but it's nothing major and certainly nothing that I intend to fix, they've had a life in an arcade after all. Otherwise, plans for the cabs are:

*Power - Sort a power strip out so that everything in the cabs runs from one 100v power cable. (Complete)

*Control Panels - Both cabs have 1L7B panels with AIME card readers that I'm not a fan of. Order replacements for both (In progress)

*Control Interfaces - I plan on using a mix of original hardware, PCs and consoles in the cabs so I'll need interfaces to support all of those. (Complete)

*Audio - I'm leaving the stock speakers as is currently. I just need to get an analogue signal to the taito amp. (Complete)

*Monitors - I'll upgrade the monitors eventually but I'm not in a rush at the moment.

*Sub panel - Procure sub panels for the additional console buttons required. A volume control and headphone jack would be useful also. (In progress)

*1000 other things I'm forgetting....

That's enough for one post. I'll upload some more photos and continue....

FrancoB2022-09-02 21:48:35
 

thegreathopper

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Nice write up Franco, great work and I didn’t realise Mo was so near, he’s had a lot of my money over the last 20 years, nice guy. but come on that Ketsui needs to be played on a CRT
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FrancoB

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Cheers bud. Yep, top bloke Mo!

Agreed, Ketsui deserves to be on a CRT really but I had to sell all of my CRT cabs a few years back and I'll unlikely be able to get some in the same condition again. Never say never though! I do now have a B&O MX4200 next to the cabs so at least there is some CRT presence
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*Power

So, I wanted to only have one 100v power lead coming from the cabinet which means everything in it needs to take 100v. PCs are ~100>230v, as is my Switch. My 360 slim PSU was 230v only though. Fortunately cools had just been though similar and found some 3rd party slim PSUs that were multi voltage so I picked one up. [This] is the one I got.

All of these have UK plugs on so I would need to install a UK powerstrip but power it from 100v from inside the cab. I looked in the back and there was the perfect place for a power strip right at the back:

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There was even some M3 tapped holes which looked to be in an ideal place too. Originally I planned on running the power strip from the Service Outlet but this is only rated for 4A and I didn't really fancy running a PC etc from this:

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Instead, I decided to run it from the LHS of the filter:

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I bought some power strips and added piggy back spade and ring terminals to the wires. I printed some brackets so I could screw them to the base of the cab with those M3 holes.

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The terminals then hooked up to the filter and I grounded the earth ring terminal to an earth point.

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Job done:

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The cabs didn't come with any kind of Taito DC PSU for 3.3v/5v/12v that I would need for JVS games. I stuck a wanted up and my boy cools hooked me up with a Lindbergh 400-5457-01 PSU.

I had a few spare LED voltmeters so I made a housing for them to keep an eye on the output. The PSU also had some conveniently located M3 holes that I could use for mounting.

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The print files for those are [here] should anyone need them.
 

FrancoB

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*Control Interfaces - It's ages since I bought any kind of control interfaces. The last ones I bought were PS360+s which are fine for X360/PC etc but not for Switch and anything else modern. A bit of a look around showed that Brook UFBs were the thing to get. invzim also sorted me out with a JVS-PAC2 so I wanted to get that installed as well.

This is the inside of the CPs pretty much 'stock'. The JVS board is in the tate cab and the Fast IO is in the hori:

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They're a bit untidy as you can see. I need to get rid of the original panels wiring, including the AIME stuff. Bizarrely the CP looms terminate in AMP UP connectors which then fit to the JST YL connectors with some AMP UP > YL adapters. Are these originally Sega looms then.... is this a 'thing'?

I wanted to use some of [Arthrimus's Vewlix Console I/O V3.1 interfaces] for the Brooks but there doesn't seem to have been stock for some time so I thought I would do something myself.

I decided to mount the Brook UFBs on top of the IOs and I made some mounts for them with M3 insert nuts to mount the hardware to:

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If needed, the print files for these are [here].

Next up was looms for them. In the absence of the Arthrimus boards I thought the next best thing would be to make looms with JST YL connectors on the end that the CP looms can be plugged into. I decided to use the 20pin 'dupont' header rather than the screw terminals.

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That's one of the P1 looms. The 15pin YL has the standard joystick, start, B1-B6 wires and GND. The 2pin YL has B7 and B8. The four pin from the other sub loom is for the sub panel controls, one of which is the touchpad button that's terminated at the JST PH connector.

Rise and repeat for the other looms. The P2 looms have the reverse gender YLs.

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Installed in the hori cab:

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Installed in the tate cab:

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The original plan for the JVS-PAC2 was to mount it at the end of the Brook UFB mount:

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However, I plan to install a sub panel and realised that the buttons in the sub panel would foul on the JVS-PAC2:

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So, instead I made a smaller mount:

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Which bolts to another part of the IO tray:

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JVS-PAC2 mounted:

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If needed, the print files for these are [here].

I've also got a Sega JVS Type 3 IO to mount for something else I have in mind but that's probably going to require swapping the IO tray out, we'll see.....

I've got some more photos to upload but they'll need to wait until tomorrow.....

FrancoB2022-06-08 05:45:05
 

Codiene

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Great work on the write up and the actual work these Franco, diamond blues are the best for sure and matching serial Nos was a real bonus there.

That was some genuine Japanese arcade detritus on the inside of that fan!!! Reminded me of emphatics comment about ass sweat on used Taito arcade stools on his blog when he reupholstered some, equally disgusting but made me chuckle nonetheless.

The 3D printer really comes in handy for this.
 

FrancoB

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Cheers gents.
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Codiene said:
That was some genuine Japanese arcade detritus on the inside of that fan!!! Reminded me of emphatics comment about ass sweat on used Taito arcade stools on his blog when he reupholstered some, equally disgusting but made me chuckle nonetheless.

I remember that too
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On a kinda side-project related tip, I've just about finished a heat insert press I've been working on.

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It's based on a design I saw on [Vector 3Ds] YT channel. I modelled it up from scratch and improved upon and added a few things. It's great to use and it's sooo satisfying accurately plunging your hot nuts into a gaping hole
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I've got a couple of parts I want to refine and then I'm going to create a BOM and upload the parts.

More blue t-moulding to come.....
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FrancoB

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I ordered them from John/g60hot in January 2011 as he was bringing some in from Japan. [Pre-order thread from the time]. I knew I wanted to get a couple of Vewlix's in the future and thought it might be my only chance to get two of them so I jumped on it. They were delivered in September 2011 and sat in boxes until I got the cabs in March this year.
 

FrancoB

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*Audio - So analogue audio from Naomi/TTX(X)/PC to the Taito amp is easy as they all have a 3.5mm jack or RCAs. You can also use the 3.5mm jack on the Switch but it's another cable to manage and you're even more limited on X360 etc. A bit of a google showed people were using HDMI audio extractors so I went down that route. It ended up being a bit of a pain as I ended up buying three different versions before I found one I was happy with.

#1 - [ebay cheapy] - Think I paid about £9 each for these. Well, I could barely get these to work. Only one in 20 times of using them would I get any HDMI signal being passed though. It wasn't just on the cabs, I tested it on a couple of PC monitors too and they behaved the same so they soon were returned.

#2 - [eSynic version from Amazon] - These were about £17 each. I had to admit I bought these in a bit of a hurry to replace the ebay ones. I had a quick scan though and they looked to support 4K. I'm not running anything 4K at the moment, nor do I have 4K monitors but I wanted to future proof a little. Now, these worked perfectly, but a closer look at the documentation when they arrived showed they support 4K devices....but only if you set the output to 1080P
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So, they soon went back.

#3 [OREI version from Amazon] - These were about £25 each. These worked fine and look to properly support 4K. The power adapter for these was multivoltage so I plugged it into the 100V power strip. The only thing I found with these is that sometimes I wouldn't get a video signal. I think when they're powered on the audio extractor checks for a input source and then outputs a signal and turning everything on at the same time didn't always work. I did find if I turned the extractor on a few seconds after the cab/monitor then it worked every time. I didn't want to manually do this every time I turned the cab on so I found some cheap [DC 5V Delay Relay Shield NE555 Timer Switch Modules] on ebay which can set a delay from 0-10 seconds.

I made some mounts to hold both the extractor and switch modules. I used blue as it was just what was in the printer at the time:

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The relays needed 5V on the coil side and I was switching 5V on the contact side so I just bridged those on the underside:

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The rest of the relay etc was wired up to suit. I added a manual switch so that I could power cycle the extractor should I need to:

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There was a couple of handy screws on the inside of the cabinet where the leg plastics are screwed on so I used these to mount the assembly out of the way in unused space.

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I just need to get some longer 3.5mm cables to neaten them up.

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The switch was mounted in the service panel in an unused hole. I made a little bushing to take up the slack:

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I've made two versions of these, with and without the mount for the relay switch and they can be downloaded [here].

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Currently the audio is going directly to the Taito Amp but I'm planning on sending it to a sub panel on the CP so I can adjust the volume and also send it to headphones with the idea being that it cuts the cab audio when the headphones are inserted. I'm just working on this at the moment, more to follow on that later....

FrancoB2022-06-08 11:54:38
 

muddymusic

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Excellent write up dude. Lovely to see some of your loom + bracket work again too.

I'd never really thought about getting a Vewlix until I saw this version, I really like these.
 

FrancoB

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Cheers mate. Yeah these are my favourite color scheme for these. The lighter colours really works well and are a bit less oppressive IMO.

I have been working on another little side project whilst working on the cabs, thought I may as well post it here rather than start a new thread as it's going to be mounted above the cabs anyway...

I've got this original Donpachi marquee that I've had for years and I used to display it on the top of the architrave above a door:

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I always wanted to display it properly in a light box so I made one for it.

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It's a woody marquee so I made a woody style light box with the left over t-moulding from the insert press.

I used 12v white LEDs to light the marquee:

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And I mounted a 12V blue LED strip on the back for some underskirt lighting which should light up the wall beneath it.

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On the bottom there's a switch plate I printed to turn the LEDs on/off independently. I added a French cleat which will marry up to one mounted to the wall.

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I need to sort out a few other things first and then I can get it mounted above the cabs.

FrancoB2022-06-09 08:54:14
 

Devil_Mish

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I am absolutely loving this thread, I've got a Vewlix F that I'd consolized then converted back recently so I've spent a lot of time inside mine and I love to see what different ideas people have.

Those marquees almost look official!
 

FrancoB

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Cheers gents
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Apologies for the delay in updates. Any free time I've had has been (trying) to work on things but I thought I should try and get something uploaded at least before I forget what I've done. I'll not stick everything in this post as it will take too long.

The next thing I worked on wasn't really planned but it's something that came about as I was working on things. I've got both cabs running off an Airlink UK-JA0750 and I had the power leads running as so:

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The problem with this is that every time I pulled the cabs out to work on the power cables would pull forward. When I went to push the cabs back the wires would get caught under the wheels and it was a ball ache fiddling with them the whole time. I thought about mounting the stepdown on the wall between the cabs but I didn't really fancy doing that. Another issue I found during working on the cabs is that I couldn't fit the smallest PC I have inside the Vewlixs. This meant I would have to get a smaller PC or run it external and have more wires running behind the cabs which I really didn't fancy. So, rather than using less wires, I bought a crap load more
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And ended up doing this:

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I added a 3m secton of 100x50mm Univolt trunking and bought various gang accessory boxes and plugs & media modules. The idea being that I could use the trunking as essentially a power strip with some mutimedia IO functionality. My desk and gaming rig is on the other side of the room so I figured I could also put the second PC under my desk and run all of the cabling through the trunking. That would save having PCs in or next to the cabinets.

The cab nearest the wall has a NEMA 5-15P US power socket (that JP JIS C 8303 plugs fit just fine), two USB ports that are connected to 10m USB repeater cables, a HDMI socket with a 10m cable attached and a Cat6 RJ45 socket. I had to learn to wire RJ45 sockets with was fun and I added a ~10m cable to this too.

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The other cab has the same setup but I also added a AC voltmeter to display the AC output from the stepdown. I can't do anything to adjust the output but it's nice to keep an eye on what's being output. So far I've noticed it range from 103-107V.

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Next to the cabs I've got a B&O MX4200 setup for consoles/MiSTer so I've added a UK plug to this with a power switch and another Cat 6 RJ45.

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Couple of pics during wiring:

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Couple bonus pics of trimming the ends of the trunking facia with the use of a printed template:

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Cable management/routing/handing during all of this was 'fun'. I added a partition to the trunking to keep the 100v and 230v wires away from the data cables which are in the top section. I added labels to the cables so I knew what I needed to plug in where when I got to the PCs at the other end. I'll try and get a picture/video of where the wiring goes to later.

The trunking cover fits on pretty tightly and isn't designed to be put on/off and I was quite concerned about things not working after fitting the trunking so I was really diligent on testing all of the USB, HDMI and ethernet connections all the way through wiring so I could be confident everything would work when I fitted the fascia. Now, I tested all of this using a laptop and everything worked fine and so I finished off the routing under my desks and fitted the covers. When I plugged everything into my main gaming rig I found one of the Brook UFBs wouldn't be recognised properly
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I had to do a load of troubleshooting at both ends of the cables to find out what I feared the most and that one of the USB repeaters was now not working properly
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I ordered a different type of USB repeater extension cable from Amazon and painstakingly replaced that one cable from the whole cable run which was a massive pain. This then worked fine but then one of the other extensions started playing up :mad: I then had to do exactly the same thing again! Touch wood though, after changing the repeaters to another brand (Amazon basics, believe it or not) they've worked just fine.

This is how the wiring then looks when hooked up to PC:

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I've aligned the sockets to be in the centre of the cabs so that even when I pull them far out the cables then trail between the wheels when pushed back.

As the power/IO bar is low I've used 90 degree cables and/or connectors to allow the cabs to be pushed up close to the wall. Not pictured (I'll add later) is a strip/bar I've screwed to the floor to a) stop the cabs being pushed back too far and b) align them perfectly.

That's it for this part of the update. I've got loads more of (hopefully more interesting
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) stuff to add....hopefully soon!
 
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