Daytona Twin restoration

[channel27]

Multiple plastic primer coats with 1500 grit wet sanding in between


And after multiple satin black top coats with 1500 grit in between, then clear coat with 2500 grit in between I end up with this





It’s not 100% perfect but I’m really happy with the result. I’ll polish up the metal centre plate before riveting it back on and order some repro graphics for where the credit button goes from Arcade Art Shop 👍

The tweeter grills get a coat of satin black too

 

[chris2922]

Lovely work, that dash has come up great.

 

[Eight-Bit]

Great job. The dash has indeed come out really well. I'm currently working on some woodie daytonas and following your progress with interest!

I couldn't work out whether the tweeters were originally black or silver. Mine are looking a well worn mixture of both.

I'm not quite at the cosmetics stage yet. Working on the monitors (one of which has and is being a pig), swapping boards around to work out what is and isn't working and ordering some bits and pieces to refurb the psus.

Some chemical treatment to blacken the bolts arrived in the post today. Thanks for the tip

 

[channel27]

Shifter
These knobs have seen a little too much action. Time for a refurb.

Before


Sanded


Masked ready for paint


And after 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of Halfords Hyundai Sleek Silver


Dashboard assembly
I’m missing the decal from around the credit button but here it is all back together complete with NOS shifter plastics that I bought from Arcade Art Shop back in 2017(!!!)

 

[channel27]

Seat base cover 2
The other seat base cover had water damage but was salvageable.

Clearing out the rot



Cut out and slotted for some biscuits


Glued up and filled


Covered in new vinyl


Metal polished and cover rebuilt

 

[channel27]

Topper
I picked up a topper a few years ago and as my bruv and his family are coming down this weekend I thought it’d be good to get it on, if only temporarily.

It needed a rewire to add a mate-n-lok to the main tube feed and the leader lamps were a death trap with bare wires everywhere so they’re not connected up at the moment. I’ve put the slave dashboard together too without the plastics ready for the last of the wiring

 

[david656]

Topper
I picked up a topper a few years ago and as my bruv and his family are coming down this weekend I thought it’d be good to get it on, if only temporarily.

It needed a rewire to add a mate-n-lok to the main tube feed and the leader lamps were a death trap with bare wires everywhere so they’re not connected up at the moment. I’ve put the slave dashboard together too without the plastics ready for the last of the wiring
View attachment 8478

I'm following this thread so closely! I've got a twin woodie we've discussed many moons ago that I need to restore. I pulled the MS8 out of one of them the other day and plan to fully service this first, strip the cab down and clean/rebuild based on your excellent thread! really interesting read! keep up the good work.

 

[Escape-to-88]

Loving this resto. Superb job.

 

[channel27]

Mini update: -

Leader lamps
The wiring for the leader lamps had been ripped out, probably due to the cables trailing on the floor for years...

Always check the wiring before plugging anything in! This would have been fun with 100v going through that brown wire


Lamp holders removed from the topper and a new wiring loom made


Lamps on. The original 100v bulbs still work!

 

[Akira99]

An absolutely outstanding and inspiring restoration, you should be very proud of yourself, I wish I was able to do this, as I think I will need your skills when I start getting cabs, again amazing work

 

[channel27]

Other projects got in the way for a while but I’m back on this now.

Next up is recapping the PSUs.

The caps required were documented by lix here and I’ve posted a reply with updated RS components links for those that have been discontinued.

First things first, remove the old caps. like lix, I desoldered the voltage regulators so they could be removed along with their heatsinks.
The olds caps didn’t look like they’d leaked, but with new ones this PSU will be good for many years to come.


New caps installed and the voltage regulators soldered back on.


Reassembled with new thermal paste between the heatsinks and the external case.
The 12v output is at a stable 12.07v and all 5v outputs are good both under load and without.


One down, one to go 👍

 

[Tibal]

Great job !
Thanks for the updated list.
Thanks to Lix as well!

 

[channel27]

The first PSU has been fitted into the master cab and the other has been recapped and fitted to the slave machine.



Next up, getting around the back of the slave machine to wire up the video, sound and controls. Which is easier said then done when you need to move the cabs around in your games room like I giant slide puzzle 😖

 

[channel27]

Slave power and video wired up.
(Ignore the colours, I’ve not got the degauss button connected yet and I couldn’t find a small screwdriver to turn the brightness down 😃)

It lives!

 

[channel27]

Master - Slave power and network link

The mains power from the master machine now powers the slave. I’ve also wired up the network link. Once the slave’s controls are calibrated it’ll be time for a race!

 

[channel27]

The screen on the slave side took a few minutes to show a good picture. The picture was kind of folded over on itself vertically.



It corrected itself slowly in ten minutes or so but it needed some TLC. So i dropped the chassis off to Grant yesterday evening and by lunchtime today it was fixed. The man’s a magician

 

[channel27]

Calibration done and back together



I’ve still got to refurb the slave side dashboard and fit the dashboard stickers but it’s playable. I won’t be able to do any painting til the better weather in the new year so for now, it’s done 👍

 

[channel27]

Limiting inrush current

Sometimes when I turned the machine on it would trip the electrics going to my games room at either the MCB in the house or the MCB in the games room's consumer unit or both. I'm not sure if the recent cold weather was a contributing factor but it started happening more and more often. After posting a thread in the tech section, I was told that the inrush current the machine was drawing when it was switched on was probably confusing the modern MCBs in my new-ish build house. The solution is to fit a NTC thermistor in the cabinet's mains feed to limit the flow of current as the machine starts up. Pinball machines are likely to have them installed, apparently.

I have fit a 5 ohm thermistor between the fuse and the mains filter on both the master and slave and (touch wood) the electrics haven't tripped since.

The thermistors I used are here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SWK9KY2

I read that they can get extremely hot but I measured the temperature with an infrared thermometer (the ones we've had pointed at our heads during covid) after the machine had been on for half an hour and it read 25°C.

Here's the thermistor fitted in the slave mains tray: -

 

[Phils Arcade]

Interesting to know. Will have to take note of that

 

[ChrisBEANS]

Just read through this. It’s bloody brilliant!! Congratulations. Fantastic stuff