Daytona USA Special
- Thread starter J69
- Start date
FinalFight
Active member
thats boss .. i know yeahJ69 said:stegrey said:brilliant so good to see it actually moving !
Cool isn't it.
£40 for a 2nd hand compressor, £3 for 2 hose connectors from screwix and a couple of changes in the menu settings and it was good to go!
I wish you had kept the other one now so I could compare the 2 games
You don't seem to be getting the gear change jumps but its hard to tell from a side view.
https://youtu.be/ndrDZ49kPRA
If that's the case Id still say there's no rapid air release working.
https://youtu.be/ndrDZ49kPRA
If that's the case Id still say there's no rapid air release working.
Ordyne said:
Yeah the compressor has a regulator. It's set to 5 bar as the manual advises. Interestingly the yellow car in this video has the same issue. You can see it as the car passes the slot reels
https://youtu.be/9MbqmvjX5I0J692019-08-20 10:19:49
neo-geo-mvs
Active member
K1ngarth3r said:
This
I played this to death in the arcade and at Uni!!!
Ordyne said:
I need to take a better video. It definitely bumps when you change gear. Like I say, BD motor test works fine, seat moves fine in all directions during the game. There's just this strange issue where at certain points of the course there's a clicking and little shudder in the seat. It's hard to even establish what is clicking as everything moves so loudly and quickly.
Seem to think Rail Chase makes a loud ish click when the seat starts to move or if you press the Emergency Stop
The best way to try and find where it's coming from is put a long screw driver if you have one on each bit of the valves and your ear on the handle end, got to be from the control valve unit I would of thought, as it's all that could make a noise, that or the Pistons
Craig's Video you can just here the Air Released noises but not Clicking like that
The Rail Chase 2 I had, sure that made some clicking noises, it did have some problems with it, it wouldn't fill the tank when first switched on, had to put finger over a pipe then something would engage and would be fine, but it sometimes used to cut out also and I'd have to switch it off and back on, this video makes same noise when he gets off it but my RC Video can't hear any noises like that
Have you got Regulator on the compressor? if so what if you turn it down a bit?
https://youtu.be/8OtL3lZq9gg?t=177
The best way to try and find where it's coming from is put a long screw driver if you have one on each bit of the valves and your ear on the handle end, got to be from the control valve unit I would of thought, as it's all that could make a noise, that or the Pistons
Craig's Video you can just here the Air Released noises but not Clicking like that
The Rail Chase 2 I had, sure that made some clicking noises, it did have some problems with it, it wouldn't fill the tank when first switched on, had to put finger over a pipe then something would engage and would be fine, but it sometimes used to cut out also and I'd have to switch it off and back on, this video makes same noise when he gets off it but my RC Video can't hear any noises like that
Have you got Regulator on the compressor? if so what if you turn it down a bit?
https://youtu.be/8OtL3lZq9gg?t=177
I've just realised Craig posted a video in his post
Thanks Craig, that's useful
The regulator is set to 5bar, which is what's advised in the manual. I suppose I could drop it to 4 and see what difference it makes. Not much I suspect though, as the yellow cab in the video I posted is having the same issue, yet all cabs in the line up will be running at the same pressure off the same compressor in tandem
I'm off Saturday and child free so I can swap out the pistons and do some trial and error testing.
Craig, would dip settings make any difference in the menu or on the drive board?
The regulator is set to 5bar, which is what's advised in the manual. I suppose I could drop it to 4 and see what difference it makes. Not much I suspect though, as the yellow cab in the video I posted is having the same issue, yet all cabs in the line up will be running at the same pressure off the same compressor in tandem
I'm off Saturday and child free so I can swap out the pistons and do some trial and error testing.
Craig, would dip settings make any difference in the menu or on the drive board?
I've read the manual cover to cover. Under the seat there are 2 solenoid controlled air valves. I suspect the clicking is the solenoids misfiring which is causing the seat to jump.
You can see them in this picture with one of them removed
I'll double check on my next day off that this is the issue. If so, any ideas what would cause misfiring solenoids? Especially at the same point in the track on every lap?
You can see them in this picture with one of them removed
I'll double check on my next day off that this is the issue. If so, any ideas what would cause misfiring solenoids? Especially at the same point in the track on every lap?
John Bennett
Senior Member
I'll stick a scope on them, see if they're getting a clean signal. Could just be a bit stiff.
So after closer inspection, it's always the left cylinder that is misfiring.
If you check the picture in my post above, the air comes into the cab, under a set of relays which lead into a L and R solenoid operated air valve. The air valves then lead into the cylinders. I'm fairly sure the left side solenoid is misfiring which is causing the clicking noise and the cylinder to jump.
The odd thing is the misfiring is at the exact same point of the track on every lap. That can't be a coincidence so something is telling the solenoid to fire at that point. The right side solenoid and cylinder is fine.
Any ideas? Video below
[Daytona IssueJ692019-08-22 17:25:25
If you check the picture in my post above, the air comes into the cab, under a set of relays which lead into a L and R solenoid operated air valve. The air valves then lead into the cylinders. I'm fairly sure the left side solenoid is misfiring which is causing the clicking noise and the cylinder to jump.
The odd thing is the misfiring is at the exact same point of the track on every lap. That can't be a coincidence so something is telling the solenoid to fire at that point. The right side solenoid and cylinder is fine.
Any ideas? Video below
[Daytona IssueJ692019-08-22 17:25:25
John Bennett
Senior Member
Maybe it's already been mentioned, but I think there's 4 pistons there.
Each side looks like it's split into an upper piston and a lower piston.
When viewed from the rear, the top left piston (or it's solenoid) might be playing up.
Lower pistons generally do the seat banking and the upper pistons look like they're for bumps, gear changes and little (pre-programmed) jolts.
A thought anyway.
John Bennett2019-08-23 08:29:04
Each side looks like it's split into an upper piston and a lower piston.
When viewed from the rear, the top left piston (or it's solenoid) might be playing up.
Lower pistons generally do the seat banking and the upper pistons look like they're for bumps, gear changes and little (pre-programmed) jolts.
A thought anyway.
John Bennett2019-08-23 08:29:04
Sorry for boring the pants off people with this thread!
I've calibrated the valves on both cylinders. The solenoid/quick breath is still clicking but it no longer causes the seat to jump which is progress. I suspect the clicking may be normal, but the pressure was too high in the left cylinder causing it to pop/jump
I've calibrated the valves on both cylinders. The solenoid/quick breath is still clicking but it no longer causes the seat to jump which is progress. I suspect the clicking may be normal, but the pressure was too high in the left cylinder causing it to pop/jump
