Hanterex chassis to tv tube

tb2000

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That a 20" or 14" tube? Difficult to tell from the back! 8 pin minineck tube so if you've not got a chassis for it you'll want a WG K7000 or Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard. A Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard socket is rarer than the K7000 unless you go with a Polo 2 or Polo 3 chassis. I don't think i've ever seen anything pre-Polo chassis with an 8 pin neckboard socket apart from the 10 inch MTC900, MTC900/E and MTC9000 versions.
 

Retroman839

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That a 20" or 14" tube? Difficult to tell from the back! 8 pin minineck tube so if you've not got a chassis for it you'll want a WG K7000 or Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard. A Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard socket is rarer than the K7000 unless you go with a Polo 2 or Polo 3 chassis. I don't think i've ever seen anything pre-Polo chassis with an 8 pin neckboard socket apart from the 10 inch MTC900, MTC900/E and MTC9000 versions.
It’s 20”
A51 IMG_7611.jpeg

I might have chassis for this
Not sure if they work though
 

Retroman839

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image.jpg
I disconnected everything
Removed tube & Chasis from cab

Reconnected and I connected 110v to the demag ?

Now i have 110v to the power input rather than the demag ..

I do not have demag connected yet ..

Do I take 240 live & neutural from primary of the iso transformer ?

Can I bring this back ?

I have the dodgy green demag tool .
 

tb2000

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The degauss circuit wires need connecting to 240v. It won't work properly on 120v. You can link to the primary side of the isolation transformer. It shouldn't really matter as far as live and neutral goes but i'd still connect the live to the fused side of the circuit. It should then automattically degauss the crt at power up.
 

Retroman839

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The degauss circuit wires need connecting to 240v. It won't work properly on 120v. You can link to the primary side of the isolation transformer. It shouldn't really matter as far as live and neutral goes but i'd still connect the live to the fused side of the circuit. It should then automattically degauss the crt at power up.
Live to fuse ..
That’s what the second fuse is for then !
Got it thanks ..

I will look for 8 pin kneck Hanty chassis for the tosh blackstripe
Tube
 

tb2000

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I have indeed. I can't sort it straight away as I have a number of other chassis I have to fix up first but i'm sure I can sort something out. I have some 8 pin neck WG K7000 chassis. I might also have a Polo 1 minineck chassis, a Polo 2 15khz minineck (can't remember if i've already sold it) and got a number of Polo 3 and also M.E.S. (Monitor Electronic Systems) chassis with 8 pin neckboards.
 

Retroman839

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No rush mate
When your ready 👍
15khz polo 1 would be my preferd choice …
Should be nice apparently
Tosh black stripe was Toshiba answer to Sony trinitron tube ..
Upped contrast and sharpness so what ever chassis you think will do the tube justice pls mate
 

Retroman839

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Been on for 2/3 hours
I’m getting a bit of green overdrive
IMG_7821.jpeg
But then it settles down just and goes back to normal
But I get a flicker every now and then like it’s going to go into overdrive again ? CAP on the kneck .. bad pot ?
The colour pots — I will try to turn em tomo when cab is off but tried but they didn’t want to turn tonight ..IMG_7823.jpeg
Only over drives for 5-10 seconds then goes back to normal .
 

tb2000

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If it only flickers full green it could be an iffy cutoff/gain neckboard pot in the green circuit, if not than an iffy BF871 (or BC547) on the neckboard in the green circuit. Or one of the small signal transistors (BC547 and BC557) in the green circuit on the rgb interface part of the chassis. I wouldn't have seen that unfortunately as I usually tend to test these chassis for 30 minutes to an hour. Problem is, that's the kind of colour fault that can take hours to work out if you've fixed it! Only way to be 100% sure really is to swap all cutoff/gain pots, BF871's, BC547's and BC557's for new ones.
 

Retroman839

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If it only flickers full green it could be an iffy cutoff/gain neckboard pot in the green circuit, if not than an iffy BF871 (or BC547) on the neckboard in the green circuit. Or one of the small signal transistors (BC547 and BC557) in the green circuit on the rgb interface part of the chassis. I wouldn't have seen that unfortunately as I usually tend to test these chassis for 30 minutes to an hour. Problem is, that's the kind of colour fault that can take hours to work out if you've fixed it! Only way to be 100% sure really is to swap all cutoff/gain pots, BF871's, BC547's and BC557's for new ones.
I will sniff it out ..
The pots look a bit tired
What s good replacement ?
I have a few I might have some that are the correct value ..

I will try something other than pandoras box as I might have gain up to much
 

tb2000

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Try and use proper Piher (or equivalent) vertical pots for the neckboard, they're all 470ohm. Also, I can't remember exactly what type of transistors it's got but it could have BC237 instead of BC547 and BC307 instead of BC557. BC237 and BC547 are interchangable though as are BC307 and BC557.
 

Retroman839

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Try and use proper Piher (or equivalent) vertical pots for the neckboard, they're all 470ohm. Also, I can't remember exactly what type of transistors it's got but it could have BC237 instead of BC547 and BC307 instead of BC557. BC237 and BC547 are interchangable though as are BC307 and BC557.
Thanks I will look at getting
Pots for it 👍
 
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