It’s 20”That a 20" or 14" tube? Difficult to tell from the back! 8 pin minineck tube so if you've not got a chassis for it you'll want a WG K7000 or Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard. A Hanty with the 8 pin neckboard socket is rarer than the K7000 unless you go with a Polo 2 or Polo 3 chassis. I don't think i've ever seen anything pre-Polo chassis with an 8 pin neckboard socket apart from the 10 inch MTC900, MTC900/E and MTC9000 versions.


Live to fuse ..The degauss circuit wires need connecting to 240v. It won't work properly on 120v. You can link to the primary side of the isolation transformer. It shouldn't really matter as far as live and neutral goes but i'd still connect the live to the fused side of the circuit. It should then automattically degauss the crt at power up.


I will sniff it out ..If it only flickers full green it could be an iffy cutoff/gain neckboard pot in the green circuit, if not than an iffy BF871 (or BC547) on the neckboard in the green circuit. Or one of the small signal transistors (BC547 and BC557) in the green circuit on the rgb interface part of the chassis. I wouldn't have seen that unfortunately as I usually tend to test these chassis for 30 minutes to an hour. Problem is, that's the kind of colour fault that can take hours to work out if you've fixed it! Only way to be 100% sure really is to swap all cutoff/gain pots, BF871's, BC547's and BC557's for new ones.
Thanks I will look at gettingTry and use proper Piher (or equivalent) vertical pots for the neckboard, they're all 470ohm. Also, I can't remember exactly what type of transistors it's got but it could have BC237 instead of BC547 and BC307 instead of BC557. BC237 and BC547 are interchangable though as are BC307 and BC557.