Mortal Kombat (Bootleg)

Jacmar

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Got 2 of these non-working Mortal Kombat bootlegs from a forum member a while back. One with reported graphics issues and one dead.
Realistic aim here is to get at least one fully working from the two as there are a number of hard, if not impossible, to replace PALs, PLD's, FPGA and ZIP package DRAM on these boards ....

IMG_5551.jpg

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Each one is a 2 board set and the combination that produced something on screen I labelled with white stickers (top picture), the remaining combo got yellow stickers (bottom picture).
So concentrating on the 'white' board set, I checked all socketed ROM's and figured out these boards are the Victor Bootleg of rev 3.0 08/31/92. And ROM's checked out ok.
When you remove the top board you get to see what could be a major issue ....

IMG_5553b.jpg

These pics taken after I removed the leaked battery ( I did this soon as I saw it) and scraped off the flaking solder mask ...

IMG_5554.jpg

Doesn't look good (the other board is worse!) but maybe not as bad as it looks ... the corrosion doesn't seem to have penetrated the nearby TTL chip legs much, those resistors look dodgy but it does look like the larger +5v and GND tracks have 'soaked up' the majority of the leaky battery acid ...
Despite this damage there is life in the game though ... and after spending some time straightening out pins on the solder side and cleaning the 2 connectors that connect the top pcb, it burst into a little bit more life and the game was clearly running ...

fl 2.jpg

At this point I was fearing issues with some of the DRAM under the top pcb, but with no way to test it I checked anything else I could first in the hope the ZIP package ram wasn't the problem. removed the TMS34010 and checked the socket connections and swapped in and out the TMS34010 from the other (yellow) board set but this made no difference. Which probably means both are either fine (likely) or both are faulty in exactly the same way (unlikely).
However when doing this with the larger FPGA chip on the top board I noticed some issues in the socket ...

fl 3.jpg

Some of the socket pins/prongs were pushed right back in the socket, unlikely to be making any contact with the IC legs. Some on the other side of the socket too. I'm guessing this happens when you stick a probe in the gap to measure signals? So spent a while repositioning all the pins, making sure they were bent forward enough in the socket to make good contact with the IC legs. After this I was pleasantly surprised to get a pretty much fully working game ...

fl 4.jpg

A few oddities remain .... The game is stuck on maximum credits !! and the scoreboard doesn't seem right ... No matter what I set the dipswitches to, this is how it always displays ...

fl 5.jpg

I'm thinking most of this could be due to the battery (lack of) situation. The CMOS settings stuck or something along those lines. Although setting the dipswitches to use dipswitch settings doesn't make any difference. Not sure I understand that part of it yet but I've ordered some battery holders so will put a new one in and see what happens .... I will also deal with the battery corrosion damage at that point too, but for now the game actually plays fine ... So now I can use this working set (white) to try and help fix the other set (yellow) ..... tbc
 

neoretro

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Good work. That worked at some point so god knows how all that damage happened. It was kept in a box for about 2 years and wasn’t damp and we never probed it
 

Jacmar

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Are they yawdim vertion
I got one playing but s solid colour purple screen
I don't think so. It says Midway Presents on the opening screen if that means anything?
I've identified them as the VICTOR BOOTLEG of rev 3.0 08/31/92. Unless this is a variation of the Yawdim Bootleg ? not really sure but I'm guessing they're different.
 

Jacmar

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Had no time to work on this again until today and the battery holders have arrived so staying on the 'white' board set, I went about fitting a holder and new battery ...
Connection was corroded away between the via and the trace of the ground connection so fed a couple of pieces of thin wire through and soldered up to reinstate the connection, then popped in the new holder and a CR2032 ...

fl battery.jpg

Feeling confident this would sort out the weird settings I fired up the game but it made no difference. Still getting bad CMOS on boot, stuck on max credits, weird high score table .... went into the test menu and tried clearing the settings, which it seemed to be doing but wasn't. Then I tried a factory reset but got a message saying 'failure in CMOS Ram' !. .. hmmmm ok, is the ram bad? I'd checked it previously and given it a green (for good, obviously) sticker so I wasn't convinced it's a bad ram but checked it again (in my tester and in another game board) and still checking out good. Then I had a good look in the socket and even though I had seen some signs of corrosion from the battery leakage before I remember thinking it wasn't bad but on a real closer inspection it was worse than I thought. Some of the socket pins had corrosion but pin 13 and 14 (gnd) were particularly bad. pin 13 looked like it wouldn't be making good contact and pin 14 had actually snapped inside !
Took out the old socket and put in a new .....

fl ram socket.jpg

RAM back in and powered it up, and happy days - got a normal score board and normal credits ... dipswitch set to use CMOS settings and even holding memory after turnoff/on (y)

fl cmos fix.jpg

So everything now working 100% as it should now for this 'white' board set ... new battery fits nicely under the top pcb and put some solder mask over the exposed corrosion damaged traces. Not perfect but looks a lot better !!

fl white done.jpg

Now I can swap pcb's from the 'yellow' set to this set to try and diagnose yellow's issues, with the knowledge both the 'white' set pcb's are 100% working ..... tbc
 

Jacmar

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So ..quick update before I forget ..
Made a start trying to fix the 'yellow' board set shortly after fixing the 'white' set a few weeks ago.
Armed with a working main board and top board from the 'white' set I put the good top board on the yellow main board.
Game boots to cmos message displayed correctly, then get the Mortal Kombat splash screen with sound, but then the screen goes black with just some artifacting (pic on left). If I set the board to go into test mode, it does but nothing is readable (pic on right).

fl yellmain goodtop.jpg

Knowing this has to be main board issues set about repairing the battery leak damage as this is very likely causing these issues .. and as you can see the damage was quite nasty ..

fl battleakdam.jpg

Removed the RAM socket, the LS245 and the LS374.

fl battwork1jpg.jpg
fl battwork2.jpg

And repopulated with known working IC's ..

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But this has made no difference whatsoever :cry: and the same issues remain.
A little disheartened at the time, I've not touched this since. Could be a real tricky one with half the main pcb covered by the top pcb (which must be attached for the game to boot), making checking IC signals a pain in the arse. tbc ....
 
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