Nanao MS2932 vs Nanao MS9-29A screen curvature differences

[Shun]

I bought a project Sega Touring sit down racer from NaokiS recently (thanks again mate) and I wanted to drop a Nanao MS2932 monitor into the cab.
The monitor lines up nicely with the mounting holes (once I sort the spacers ) but after test fitting the bezel, the curvature is different. Originally it had a Nanao MS9-29A monitor in it which I'm pretty sure has a A68KJU96X tube, which is the same as the MS2932 although the MS9 is 15khz and the MS2932 is 31khz.

I've obviously made the wrong assumption here that these would be the same. I don't want to start sanding the bezel, but I might have to.
Does anyone else have experience installing one of these 31khz monitors into a model 2 type sit down racer?

 

[Vamino]

Off the top of my head, Nanao MS9 had 2 curvatures and there were 3 tubes, Toshiba, Samsung and Hitachi. Japanese cabs usually came with Toshiba tubes.

I'd save the hassle and try and source a bezel. think I have a spare one in the loft but would need to check.

 

[Shun]

Off the top of my head, Nanao MS9 had 2 curvatures and there were 3 tubes, Toshiba, Samsung and Hitachi. Japanese cabs usually came with Toshiba tubes.

I'd save the hassle and try and source a bezel. think I have a spare one in the loft but would need to check.

That would be great if you could a look at some point. I’ve ordered a “flat” bezel from Mo which I think has no curved bit at the back so I’m hoping there is a bit of clearance for me to make my own curved bit to match the monitor. That’s my backup plan for now unless I can find the correct one.

 

[Outrun2]

Yes it depends on the tube. The Toshiba tubes usually fitted to the MS2932 (often found in F355) are more curved than the Hitachi tubes which were more often fitted in UK Model2/3 cabs in my experience.

Toshiba tube..


Hitachi tube..


If you're looking to drop an MS2932 monitor into the cab, you'll be best sourcing an F355 bezel as bezels from other games could be hit and miss.

Double check the tube first though as there are at least two or three other styles of bezel available for driver cabs!

 

[Shun]

Yeah, perhaps it was a Hitachi tube that was in this cab originally. The bezel is definitely less curved so there is a gap in the corners.
I'll keep a look out for F355 bezels

 

[Shun]

The spare bezel that I ordered from Mo at https://www.videotronicsuk.com/ arrived today. Thanks for that mate. I only ordered it on Monday evening and it got here this morning. Super fast delivery. Thanks again.

Anyway I’ve installed it in the cab now that I managed to find my spare monitor spacers I’ve had a chance to install the monitor and try both bezels.

The original one which is the touring car bezel, definitely doesn’t fit. The curved section at the back of the bezel is too “fat”/the monitor is too far forward for it to fit. I sort of could see this happening when doing a test fit of the bezel before installing the monitor. Which is why I ordered the “flat” bezel from Mo.

It seems to be a bezel from a Japanese initial D machine and it has a very very slight curve on the back and is much thinner (the curve that is). So when I installed it, it fit!



The bezel touches the monitor at the top and bottom in the centre of the screen, however there are some gaps in the corners:



I plan on rectifying this with some Black Milliput and mould some into the gaps with some cling film or something similar so that it doesn’t attach to the monitor or bezel. When it’s set hard, I can then sand it flat and paint it with some Satin black paint that I used on my Pac-Man cabaret. Then I can either screw it into the bezel or glue it.

One thing that’s bugging me though is that the monitor seems to sit a little high. It does sit quite in the middle of the bezel vertically. I’ve checked and it would be the same with the original bezel as well. The dark bit around the viewable area of the monitor is more viable at the bottom than at the top.




The monitor frame sits nicely against the mounting posts so it’s mounted in the right place (I’m pretty sure all of the frames for these 29 monitors are pretty much the same looking at pictures).

Is that normal? I’ve never had one of these sit down cabs before and everything seems to be installed correctly. There are no adjustments that can be done to drop it down half a centimetre.

It maybe because I’m used to Naomi upright bezels that cover that black section around the viewable area of the monitor completely.

 

[Bods]

The spare bezel that I ordered from Mo at https://www.videotronicsuk.com/ arrived today. Thanks for that mate. I only ordered it on Monday evening and it got here this morning. Super fast delivery. Thanks again.

Anyway I’ve installed it in the cab now that I managed to find my spare monitor spacers I’ve had a chance to install the monitor and try both bezels.

The original one which is the touring car bezel, definitely doesn’t fit. The curved section at the back of the bezel is too “fat”/the monitor is too far forward for it to fit. I sort of could see this happening when doing a test fit of the bezel before installing the monitor. Which is why I ordered the “flat” bezel from Mo.

It seems to be a bezel from a Japanese initial D machine and it has a very very slight curve on the back and is much thinner (the curve that is). So when I installed it, it fit!

View attachment 27396

The bezel touches the monitor at the top and bottom in the centre of the screen, however there are some gaps in the corners:

View attachment 27397

I plan on rectifying this with some Black Milliput and mould some into the gaps with some cling film or something similar so that it doesn’t attach to the monitor or bezel. When it’s set hard, I can then sand it flat and paint it with some Satin black paint that I used on my Pac-Man cabaret. Then I can either screw it into the bezel or glue it.

One thing that’s bugging me though is that the monitor seems to sit a little high. It does sit quite in the middle of the bezel vertically. I’ve checked and it would be the same with the original bezel as well. The dark bit around the viewable area of the monitor is more viable at the bottom than at the top.

View attachment 27398
View attachment 27399

The monitor frame sits nicely against the mounting posts so it’s mounted in the right place (I’m pretty sure all of the frames for these 29 monitors are pretty much the same looking at pictures).

Is that normal? I’ve never had one of these sit down cabs before and everything seems to be installed correctly. There are no adjustments that can be done to drop it down half a centimetre.

It maybe because I’m used to Naomi upright bezels that cover that black section around the viewable area of the monitor completely.

That is how they are, my cobbled together cab that was empty Initital D has Hitachi Tube in which fits nicely to ID bezel, but this and the Initial D cab that is all original both the top of bezel is pretty much on the black border edge at top and bottom you see a lot of the black tube border so nothing to worry about there.

 

[Shun]

Ah ok. That’s good then. I thought I had put the cab back together wrong, but I couldn’t figure out what as the monitor lines up ok. If anyone is in need of a spare Touring Car/model 2 bezel, let me know as I don’t need this one now. 😁

 

[Vamino]

Yeah, perhaps it was a Hitachi tube that was in this cab originally. The bezel is definitely less curved so there is a gap in the corners.
I'll keep a look out for F355 bezels

Just ventured up into the loft, and yes, I have a spare F355 bezel.
It'll need a clean/polish though, but it doesn't seem too bad.

I've got various panels, seatbacks, single toppers (Original Jp Initial D topper with marquee holder and a couple of Chinese Jp style Outrun 2 toppers) if you wanted to give your cab a facelift. I've got a spare set of Initial D plastics, panels with art/Seatback with art and the Jp topper.

Also have Model 3 dashes (No shifters) and servo boards (Not the ones with the LED) if you wanted to go down the rabbit hole of PC emulation using OG Arcade hardware.

Just let me know if you fancy anything.

Cheers.

 

[Shun]

Just ventured up into the loft, and yes, I have a spare F355 bezel.
It'll need a clean/polish though, but it doesn't seem too bad.

I've got various panels, seatbacks, single toppers (Original Jp Initial D topper with marquee holder and a couple of Chinese Jp style Outrun 2 toppers) if you wanted to give your cab a facelift. I've got a spare set of Initial D plastics, panels with art/Seatback with art and the Jp topper.

Also have Model 3 dashes (No shifters) and servo boards (Not the ones with the LED) if you wanted to go down the rabbit hole of PC emulation using OG Arcade hardware.

Just let me know if you fancy anything.

Cheers.

That F355 bezel is tempting, but I've got this initial d one now. If I can't fill those gaps with the Milliput successfully, I might need that Ferrari bezel . The cab that I've got came with a load of spares, I have two control panels, two direct drive motors and all of the boards necessary for it to work. I don't have the original Touring Car board, because I want to put a PC in it. I think there might be a board that can interface between PC and model 2. I think they are called Mega Adaptors: https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ug-and-play-pc-in-sega-racing-cabinets.27891/

I don't know if there is another way of interfacing Sega Racing cabs to PC. Would like the FFB to work as well.
I might be interested in that Outrun 2 topper and maybe some other bits and pieces.

 

[Vamino]

No worries.

That's interesting that there are solutions for most Sega drivers now. I've still got one of those L2M2 adapters and a Model 2 dash that I never got around to messing with.

Those French guys really are amazing.

 

[Shun]

Yeah, those adaptors look really cool. I'm not sure how much they cost. Probably around £200-£300. I might buy one as a Christmas present to myself

 

[Shun]

First time powering the monitor with this cab and the bezel and control panel back in place running Tekno Parrot. Looks good. Haven’t even filled the gaps with Milliput yet.

 

[Retroman839]

Nice 👍
I’m doing same thing…
( trying to camt
Get time at moment due to work..
But I spoke to aganyte and not sure about touring car but you can hit him up on Arcade Projects

Aganyte

www.arcade-projects.com

Pre configured HDD.. as well ( back force feeder etc all configured ..

I have a touring car cab that I’m swapping to f355 then I will go for the ffb redesign for f355..
For Lindy one of aganyts boards ..

I have all the stuff for the LM2m2 also with Daytona dash And Logitech wheel pcb.. non started but collected all parts for it. I have Tekno parrot to
Couple of Logitech wheels.

so I’m glad to see you have made progress with yours …. Nice monitors them 2932z. But yeh much less curve
My touring has a 2930 in amd
It’s almost like a bowl

 

[Shun]

I'm getting this board (was going to get it as a Christmas present for myself, but I've already put an order in for one 😅 ):

This is the: M2B.C MEGA Adapter v1.0 for SEGA Model 2B and 2C-CRX Cabinets, like Sega Touring Car, Indy 500... (v2.0 now available)
I've spoken to user Tibal over on arcade projects and he said that this should hook up to a PC and provide FFB with the original hardware. I have the original FFB board and other boards that came with the machine, just not the Model 2 stack/game. So I'm hoping it should all work.

I've also ordered a VGA video amplifier board for Arcade Monitor with sync filter which will filter out any high resolutions that the PC might try and display on the arcade monitor. I currently have to wait until the monitor has gone passed the bios and Windows 10 logo as those screens display at 1024x768 I think and the monitor goes nuts. Once its in Windows its fine as its set to 640x480. Was going to get a time delay relay and put it in between the monitor and the 100V AC power, but hopefully this will be a more elegant solution.
more info here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...rd-for-arcade-monitor-with-sync-filter.24936/

 

[Shun]

@Retroman839, quick question about your Touring Car cab, how does the steering panel attach to the cab? I've screwed in the four Torx bolts, but I think there should be some bolts that connect underneath, but I'm not sure. Should the (very, very heavy) direct drive motor be mounted somewhere to the cab, or is it only attached to the steering panel?

 

[Retroman839]

2 of the same tamper proof torx underneath ( was in the last ferrari dash I removed !

I will look tomorow ..
It’s only attatched to the steering panel .

If all my power is working ok In Lindberg cab .. I will get a ffb board from aganyte As well as a ferrar f355 as well for the touring cab..
As I have a ferri Naomi original stack .
I need to take the touring seat off and get a look inside because it’s running outrun sp off an Xbox original

 

[Shun]

I bought a load of new M8 bolts from Amazon recently to replace some of the rusty bolts in this cab.

I tried one of the bolts underneath the steering panel and it fits ok.

Had a Quick Look at the manual and it states that they should be M8 20mm plastic security bolts:



Where I would get them from I don’t know. I’ve managed to find some Nylon Philips head bolts that are M8 20mm from Acuu.co.uk, so I’m going to try them once they arrive.

 

[Retroman839]

I could let you have some but they are anoying!

You don’t need the cab to be tamper proof no more so get some stainless steel hex head ( star bits ).
Keep it easy

 

[Bods]

I bought a load of new M8 bolts from Amazon recently to replace some of the rusty bolts in this cab.

I tried one of the bolts underneath the steering panel and it fits ok.

Had a Quick Look at the manual and it states that they should be M8 20mm plastic security bolts:

View attachment 27714

Where I would get them from I don’t know. I’ve managed to find some Nylon Philips head bolts that are M8 20mm from Acuu.co.uk, so I’m going to try them once they arrive.

what are they threading into? is it metal or plastic, they don't mean bolts that fix into plastic as apposed to plastic bolts do they

only have later ID/Outrun 2 type which shows 6x M8 Bolts, 2 each side of dash and 2 underneath