Star wars cockpit replica

[Favorthebrave]

Hi
Yeah pretty much that, but 2 vacuum cleaners, but not my wife’s cause she would kill me
I plan to build a vacuum chamber and place the mould on top
Then drop a frame with an abs sheet in at 200oC over the top then switch on both vacuums
Basically that’s how we do it with car dashboards

 

[Favorthebrave]

Hi Guys,

Just updating everyone who is interested, not much is happening at the moment with the build except I am working on the yoke controls to PC interface.

I have the arduino and yoke working now as a mouse but it does not feel like the controls are that responsive.

I think further investigations and research are needed. I could cheat and just buy the alan-1 usb adaptor but I would like to have a go at a cheaper option first, this way others could benefit with a cheap adaptor to convert an atari yoke to usb.

I will update once I think it is working correctly.

A question if you could be so kind to answer is on the original atari star wars does the cross hair auto center in the game when releasing the yoke?

I find with the mouse control even when you let go of the yoke it tends to stay where it is.

I think I will need the make the PC think the arduino is a game controller rather than a mouse.

I have now fitted the perspex screen in the bezel to see how it looks. Waiting on shops to open now for more timber etc to build the vac former so I can make the plastic bezel.

For now I will use the wooden mould to complete the machine then replace with the plastic bezel once I have a vac formed version.

BR

 

[minwah]

I have the arduino and yoke working now as a mouse but it does not feel like the controls are that responsive.

I think further investigations and research are needed. I could cheat and just buy the alan-1 usb adaptor but I would like to have a go at a cheaper option first, this way others could benefit with a cheap adaptor to convert an atari yoke to usb.

I will update once I think it is working correctly.

A question if you could be so kind to answer is on the original atari star wars does the cross hair auto center in the game when releasing the yoke?

I find with the mouse control even when you let go of the yoke it tends to stay where it is.

I think I will need the make the PC think the arduino is a game controller rather than a mouse.

As you suspect you would have better results interfacing the yoke as a joystick rather than mouse. It goes for all games that they will not work 100% with the wrong type of input. ie Mame's adstick input games should be played with an analog stick.

I don't know anything about the Alan-1 adaptor but you could alternatively use an APAC:

https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/a-pac/a-pac/?currency=GBP

Or go with your Arduino method, which sounds interesting, would like to see what you come up with!

 

[Favorthebrave]

Hi All,

I hope you are all staying safe,

Just a further update regarding the Arduino interface, it works !!

I had to change it so the PC stopped seeing it as a mouse and instead saw it as a game controller and straight away it worked.

Wired
it up to the correct MLX housing plug bought from RS components so did
not have to alter the star wars yoke wiring. I am running at the moment
Star wars trilogy on the PC and the yoke is working really well.

I even wired the coin mech signal out direct to the arduino so now it accepts 20p to coin up the game.

I
have to finish the bit behind the seat ( see photos below ) and need to
get the perspex roof sections but other than that it is fully
functioning.

Once Covid is over I will look at spending some
cash on building the vac former and heater box which I have planned for
the summer.

So hopefully it will be completely finished soon,

 

[digweed]

Wow just read the thread and you have some skills. That replica looks amazing, I bet you will have already had some requests to build more for us

 

[Sbdesign]

Looking fantastic.
Should be proud, lots of work and effort, and it looks like it is paying off.

Great project & very interesting.

Where in teesside are you?

 

[John Bennett]

That does look most excellent!!! A triumph, especially in the days of lazy 1-up ‘repros’.

One thought - I could be wrong, but is the original screen not slanted back a bit more than that? Suppose it is also smaller, which might not suit everyone.John Bennett2020-05-19 11:08:22

 

[Tony]

That looks absolutely brilliant, well done

 

[Favorthebrave]

Looking fantastic.
Should be proud, lots of work and effort, and it looks like it is paying off.

Great project & very interesting.

Where in teesside are you?

Hi Sbdesign,

I live in Yarm

BR Tim

 

[Favorthebrave]

That does look most excellent!!! A triumph, especially in the days of lazy 1-up ‘repros’.

One thought - I could be wrong, but is the original screen not slanted back a bit more than that? Suppose it is also smaller, which might not suit everyone.

Hi John,

I think you are correct,I have just looked at some images of screen position and the CRT looks to be set further back ( around 80mm ), because it is an LCD that I used, I was worried that it may not be bright enough with the bronze tint perspex but I think I may move it back further as it should be fine.

BR Tim

 

[Mr20to5]

Another awesome update. Just brilliant.

 

[Purity]

Looks great. How are you running SW Trilogy?

 

[Favorthebrave]

Looks great. How are you running SW Trilogy?

Hi, I am running standard PC with supermodel

 

[Hurray Banana]

Looks amazing

 

[FanDabbyDozy]

Some poeple have some outstanding skills, such a nice looking cab.

 

[Purity]

Looks great. How are you running SW Trilogy?

Hi, I am running standard PC with supermodel

Ah ok, thanks for that

 

[strykr]

Really top work. Nice one!

 

[Steveylou]

Absolutely staggering Favorthebrave. Love it!

Apologies if you've said this already but how long do you think you've spent on it so far?

 

[iamjimmi]

Great project and the results look superb.

The force is strong....

 

[Favorthebrave]

Absolutely staggering Favorthebrave. Love it!

Apologies if you've said this already but how long do you think you've spent on it so far?

Hi Steveylou,

I really started to build the actual cockpit back end of Feb, I spent quite a while making the templates first from December until Feb.

I only have the time on a weekend but I would say I could probably build a cab in 2 weeks if I did it full time and ordered everything in advance. The T trim for the top comes from America so has a long lead time.

The first one was always going to be the challenge.

I still need to sort out making the replica bezels and control panels which is what I want to focus on during the summer.

I need to build the vac former and heater box for manufacturing the plastic bezels, the one currently in my cab is completely made from wood which I will use as a mould.