A noobs adventures in cab ownership!
- Thread starter ChrisBEANS
- Start date
ChrisBEANS
Active member
big10p said:
Noted!!! I think I just about got away with it here, but definitely would have preferred a second can...
I have to say, while it's far from perfect, this turned out pretty well!!
I'm pleased
ChrisBEANS
Active member
Still tons to do of course, but starting to get to a place where things can go back together...
I just hope it still works once it's reassembled :lol:
One thing I do know for sure doesn't work are the EL panels, so they'll need replacing, but I've spent quite enough lately, so they'll have to wait...
ChrisBEANS2021-05-18 12:35:30
I just hope it still works once it's reassembled :lol:
One thing I do know for sure doesn't work are the EL panels, so they'll need replacing, but I've spent quite enough lately, so they'll have to wait...
ChrisBEANS2021-05-18 12:35:30
Nice work, that came out really well 
K1ngarth3r
Active member
Superb
ChrisBEANS
Active member
Cheers guys, I was quite pleased it worked out so well...
I've ordered some fittings, and sadly that means I won't be getting this beast finished for some time as I've got to wait for them, but on the plus side it should be a really nice finish when it all arrives.
So, for now, I'll pimp my sticks... This is the only part of cab ownership I have any real experience with, and a part I really enjoy.
Anyone like using a stock JLF? Nah, me neither. However, the JLF can be customised like no other stick and in my opinion is the best possible experience once you have it set up to personal preference.
First things first I replaced the soft, plastic pivot with a this cool engineered stainless, mirror polished pivot, and lubed it up with some Shin-Etsu grease...
I'm yet to actually use these pivots, so can't actively recommend them yet, but I'm told they're more tactile than the softer plastic version, and of course it goes without saying that they'll be far more durable. I look forward to finding out!
Next up, I changed the loose (0.9lb) stock spring with a much stiffer 4lb spring...
I hate a loose spring, and these springs all loosen over time, but with a 4lb spring it'll stay stiifer for longer (yeah, I heard it, don't be so bloody filthy!!)
I swapped the small stock actuator for a much larger actuator to significantly shorten the throw distance...
And then simply swapped the stock square gate for an octo...
Then to complete the Euro style aesthetic, I've gone for a black aluminium shaft cover and dust washer, and a nice heavy aluminium bat top...
Then it was just a case of doing the same to the P2 stick...
A lot of this is personal preference stuff, but this is by far my favoured configuration. I have almost the exact same configuration in my fight stick...
The spring tension is very high, but it is off set by the heavy bat top, and it does loosen over time. If you find it too heavy, there is also a 2lb option. The throw distance is much smaller with the large actuator too. I personally find the small actuator and light spring of the stock stick a very loose and imprecise combination, but you'll find plenty of people who swear by them. You'll also find plenty of people who insist that Seimitsu is the only way to go, and those who will only use Korean membrane sticks. There's no right answer here.
The octo/square/round gate debate will rumble of for the ages.
I find the above combination to be extremely precise, and it's what I used when I was learning to 1cc MS1 and MS2, so I know it works a treat... for me.
I've ordered some fittings, and sadly that means I won't be getting this beast finished for some time as I've got to wait for them, but on the plus side it should be a really nice finish when it all arrives.
So, for now, I'll pimp my sticks... This is the only part of cab ownership I have any real experience with, and a part I really enjoy.
Anyone like using a stock JLF? Nah, me neither. However, the JLF can be customised like no other stick and in my opinion is the best possible experience once you have it set up to personal preference.
First things first I replaced the soft, plastic pivot with a this cool engineered stainless, mirror polished pivot, and lubed it up with some Shin-Etsu grease...
I'm yet to actually use these pivots, so can't actively recommend them yet, but I'm told they're more tactile than the softer plastic version, and of course it goes without saying that they'll be far more durable. I look forward to finding out!
Next up, I changed the loose (0.9lb) stock spring with a much stiffer 4lb spring...
I hate a loose spring, and these springs all loosen over time, but with a 4lb spring it'll stay stiifer for longer (yeah, I heard it, don't be so bloody filthy!!)
I swapped the small stock actuator for a much larger actuator to significantly shorten the throw distance...
And then simply swapped the stock square gate for an octo...
Then to complete the Euro style aesthetic, I've gone for a black aluminium shaft cover and dust washer, and a nice heavy aluminium bat top...
Then it was just a case of doing the same to the P2 stick...
A lot of this is personal preference stuff, but this is by far my favoured configuration. I have almost the exact same configuration in my fight stick...
The spring tension is very high, but it is off set by the heavy bat top, and it does loosen over time. If you find it too heavy, there is also a 2lb option. The throw distance is much smaller with the large actuator too. I personally find the small actuator and light spring of the stock stick a very loose and imprecise combination, but you'll find plenty of people who swear by them. You'll also find plenty of people who insist that Seimitsu is the only way to go, and those who will only use Korean membrane sticks. There's no right answer here.
The octo/square/round gate debate will rumble of for the ages.
I find the above combination to be extremely precise, and it's what I used when I was learning to 1cc MS1 and MS2, so I know it works a treat... for me.
Does anyone actually like those square gates? I use stiffer springs and round gates, but I'm not into Street Fighter type games, where I imagine octo gates would be good. Round gates are essential for Robotron on my MAME cab.
Don't like Seimitsu sticks. They sort of ride up when pushed to full throw with force.
big10p2021-05-20 06:33:16
Don't like Seimitsu sticks. They sort of ride up when pushed to full throw with force.
big10p2021-05-20 06:33:16
thegreathopper
Active member
I only play with square gates, tried octagon and round but just feel wrong to me, I couldn’t get fire balls or dragon punches unless square, just feels right on a square.
Seimitsu LS32 are my go to sticks, can play with Sanwa but they feel a bit loose, I play 99% fighting games plus a few modernish shooters, Dodonpachi etc.
thegreathopper2021-05-20 08:43:58
Seimitsu LS32 are my go to sticks, can play with Sanwa but they feel a bit loose, I play 99% fighting games plus a few modernish shooters, Dodonpachi etc.
thegreathopper2021-05-20 08:43:58
ChrisBEANS
Active member
LOL, as I was saying, the debate rolls on
ChrisBEANS
Active member
Really pleased with the next part, just simply because I was worried I wasn't going to be able to use anything other than a Euro stick...
The stock JLF clearly won't fit the CP, and it being a thick steel panel means that it'd be more trouble trying to modify the panel itself. Not to mention beyond my personal ability and the capability of any tools I have.
Fortunately, the Kowal flat plate adapter already exists, which is awesome!!
Unfortunately, because the OG sticks for these cabinets had molded ball tops (and probably didn't come apart either?), the hole in the CP is much, much larger than needed for a Japanese stick...
Meaning that once I add the vinyl CP art, there'll be a huge unsupported area around the sticks themselves. The vinyl over that usupported area will stretch and probably tear with prolonged use, making all of this an exercise in futility...
Now, we've covered that I am woefully under skilled or equipped to modify the CP.
The ideal hole for a Japanese stick is something like 20mm (maybe smaller?), and the hole in this CP is 45mm. The CP itself is 2mm thick...
Turns out, if you measure correctly, and google enough, you can find a washer that is 2mm thick, has a 45mm diameter, and a 20mm bore.
Which, once you have a nice flat plate mounted flush to the underside will sit very snugly in the hole...
And with that, I think we've successfully installed a modified Japanese stick or two into a 30 year old steel, euro CP.
I did think the mounting plate for the 2P stick might be too close to the A button, but it's all good...
Next update 'should' be me being brave enough to install the CP vinyl.
The stock JLF clearly won't fit the CP, and it being a thick steel panel means that it'd be more trouble trying to modify the panel itself. Not to mention beyond my personal ability and the capability of any tools I have.
Fortunately, the Kowal flat plate adapter already exists, which is awesome!!
Unfortunately, because the OG sticks for these cabinets had molded ball tops (and probably didn't come apart either?), the hole in the CP is much, much larger than needed for a Japanese stick...
Meaning that once I add the vinyl CP art, there'll be a huge unsupported area around the sticks themselves. The vinyl over that usupported area will stretch and probably tear with prolonged use, making all of this an exercise in futility...
Now, we've covered that I am woefully under skilled or equipped to modify the CP.
The ideal hole for a Japanese stick is something like 20mm (maybe smaller?), and the hole in this CP is 45mm. The CP itself is 2mm thick...
Turns out, if you measure correctly, and google enough, you can find a washer that is 2mm thick, has a 45mm diameter, and a 20mm bore.
Which, once you have a nice flat plate mounted flush to the underside will sit very snugly in the hole...
And with that, I think we've successfully installed a modified Japanese stick or two into a 30 year old steel, euro CP.
I did think the mounting plate for the 2P stick might be too close to the A button, but it's all good...
Next update 'should' be me being brave enough to install the CP vinyl.
ChrisBEANS
Active member
I'll fit the viyl over the unpopulated CP.
Should be taut enough that I can then lay the washer inside the larger hole, cut out the vinyl fron the center of the washer and then mount the stick... I hope... We'll see I guess??
Should be taut enough that I can then lay the washer inside the larger hole, cut out the vinyl fron the center of the washer and then mount the stick... I hope... We'll see I guess??
Looking very tidy. I miss my 6 Slot.
I do recommend these for EL panels. Plug and play
http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info/product/6-slot-electrocoin-3-x-2-kit/
What I would say is the typical panels are cool white (which wasn't even a thing when these cabs were out). I requested warm white panels and they look/work great.
There are cheaper DIY ways of doing it, but IMO these are worth the cash.
I do recommend these for EL panels. Plug and play
http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info/product/6-slot-electrocoin-3-x-2-kit/
What I would say is the typical panels are cool white (which wasn't even a thing when these cabs were out). I requested warm white panels and they look/work great.
There are cheaper DIY ways of doing it, but IMO these are worth the cash.
Monstermug
Active member
ChrisBEANS said:
Yeah sorry. Been ever so busy with work still. Still trying to clear the massive backlog due to the lockdown. With paint my brother who is a car bodywork mechanic does the spraying for me. Comes out looking like a showroom car complete with reflections. But i would probably just go for the sandblasting and powder coating for durability if i didn't know him. And re galvanising any metal pieces rather than sanding it down.
I still got your Vendetta!