You painting these rather than powder coating? I used car bodywork filler on my daytona plastics. Came up a treat once primed and sprayed satin black will a million thin coats, sanding in between.
I’ve seen them on yahoo japan in the past. https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=t1033367955
I’ve seen them on yahoo japan in the past. https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=t1033367955
Otherwise you’d have to trace the wires and see what powers what and create a custom loom. Main thing is the io board (and the coin counter/credit mechanism.)

That board is for routing the jvs and audio in the cab. The io board connects to it from the rear of the cab. The jvs connects from here to the pc as does the audio.View attachment 65402
Just got that pcb that’s it
Thanks for looking.
LG monitors seem to be the go-to: -
Noir Monitor Swap
Just swapped my monitor with a LG 32GN650-B. 1in wide foam on the sides and 2in wide x3 stacked in the middle. I added some 3m heavy duty double stick tape to the foam to stick to the monitor. Just need to screw in the main 4 bolts and slide the monitor a bit to the left. I have a korean noir...www.arcade-projects.com
Random question for you knowledgable folks: -
These are Japanese cabs that run on 100v, yes?
Can I put a spare Naomi universal AC transformer internally in the cab to convert 240ac down to 100? I’ve got lots of them, either this Naomi one or several from Daytona twins
I assume there’s space inside?
Something like an LG 32GN600-B?Sanwa were 720P & the Wei-Ya's which are in most were 1065p which can be fussy with inputs, I have a LG Ultragear 2k in mine now.
Stock monitors are so old they didn't even have led back lights only flo tubes.
It depends what I end up putting in there tbh.
I guess the IO board needs 12 and 5v from somewhere and the existing PSU(s) run on 100v. If they're knackered I've got a Sun PSU to put in there but that'll also run on 100v.
Or I could just use a 240v PC ATX PSU
To be honest ..Sanwa were 720P & the Wei-Ya's which are in most were 1065p which can be fussy with inputs, I have a LG Ultragear 2k in mine now.
Stock monitors are so old they didn't even have led back lights only flo tubes.
The Namco STD connect pcb can be troublesome & give odd sound newer Grigio units done away with it & only have one psu with direct sound from the amp & JVS.
Artax multi with brooks boards or the gp2040-ce. Can run on any pc with decent specs and gpu.To be honest ..
I was never going to use any of this stock stuff ..
Happy to use a ps4/3 etc .. with a brooks .. and add my own amp.
I guess T7 es3
But I could just chuck a technoparrot pc in this ?
32GP850-B Discontinued now but I think the newer models are about 100 cheaper.Something like an LG 32GN600-B?
(32", non-curved, 2K)
What's the model of yours, if you can remember, please?
Thanks haven’t been inside back yetArtax multi with brooks boards or the gp2040-ce. Can run on any pc with decent specs and gpu.
The main amp and the jvs io are mounted in the back btw where the monitor connections can be seen.
Swap each of those for a Dreamcast powersupply. It literally does the exact same thing but with 110v/240v independence. 🙂
Plus, any replacement monitor is likely to be 240v ... things get easier for all that voltage wank with LCD/LED/OLED panels. 🙂
Depending on the monitor voltage requirements you could potentially tap into the existing psus and run it directly from there so it’ all nice and neat.Any replacement monitor will have its own supply, too ...
Amp was good the std connect pcb not so but a easy fix I still have the old one if anyone gets stuck.I found the amp to be very good in my Noir, I use a PS4 in mine with a couple of brooks boards.