Baby Pacman Restoration

Purity

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Continued sanding down the first side of the cabinet. This is going to be a slow process because the vibration from the sander seems to cause some issues with my hand :-(

On the positive side, I've managed to tap out the leg leveller mounting plates and get some legs put on it. This was pretty essential, because there was no point fixing the bottom of the cabinet and then standing it up, on it's bottom again, to possibly get further damaged

IMG00107-20130420-1312.jpg

Purity2013-04-20 16:34:06
 

Dex-Jay

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A heat gun (uber-hair dryer) will remove the decals.... warm the adhesive and hopefully it will peel off. Or it will have gone so darn it just comes off in chunks...

What type of sander are you using? Electrical palm sander? Ideally you want air tools if you plan to do more. I use a DA or dual action sander - it spins and moves in orbits. Self adhesive or velcro pads in all grades. I start with 80's, 180 and 320 is a fine as you need going before primer.... a DA will be easier on your hands too. You'll need a compressor too of course, I use a 3HP 240V with about 150 Litre tank which does me, and you'll be able to blow out the dust (cobwebs) and spray too!
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Air tools are cheaper too by the way something to consider if you plan on other resto's! I'm sure I don't need to tell you to wear a dust mask too, but I will! WEAR A DUST MASK!
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Dex-Jay2013-04-20 15:30:55
 

Purity

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Thanks dude, I have replacement side art, CP artwork, and have overhauled the playfield already

I believe Equites is going to lend me his orbital sander so hopefully I have better joy with that

Oh yea, I've got a really decent mask, and I wear googles so don't worry about the health and safety aspects
Purity2013-04-20 16:10:39
 

IDCHAPPY

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Purity said:
Thanks dude, I have replacement side art, CP artwork, and  have overhauled the playfield already

I believe Equites is going to lend me his orbital sander so hopefully I have better joy with that

Oh yea, I've got a really decent mask, and I wear googles so don't worry about the health and safety aspects
That the mask on Facebook?
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Purity

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Dex-Jay said:
A heat gun (uber-hair dryer) will remove the decals.... warm the adhesive and hopefully it will peel off. Or it will have gone so darn it just comes off in chunks...

What type of sander are you using? Electrical palm sander? Ideally you want air tools if you plan to do more. I use a DA or dual action sander - it spins and moves in orbits. Self adhesive or velcro pads in all grades. I start with 80's, 180 and 320 is a fine as you need going before primer.... a DA will be easier on your hands too. You'll need a compressor too of course, I use a 3HP 240V with about 150 Litre tank which does me, and you'll be able to blow out the dust (cobwebs) and spray too!
smiley4.gif


Air tools are cheaper too by the way something to consider if you plan on other resto's! I'm sure I don't need to tell you to wear a dust mask too, but I will! WEAR A DUST MASK!
smiley2.gif

The side art sands off quite easily. I'll be using a heatgun on the CPO to scrape it off

I'm using a Parkside 600w belt sander, with a medium (80 grit) and fine course belt (120 grit). Probably not the best tool to use but it was to hand when I started.

I'm seeing Equites tomorrow so hopefully he can dig out the Orbital sander to make it easier for me

Purity2013-04-20 16:35:00
 

Purity

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Bit of an quick update on this:

I borrowed Equites orbital sander and managed to do a bit more. The right side is pretty much done, but I need to remove the side art and underneath to get it finished. I'm pleased with the results as it's really clean and smooth:

I also sanded and tidied up the top, back and door of the cabinet, ready for repair.

IMG00111-20130506-1528.jpg


I then started on the bottom of the cabinet. I left around the edges so
that I can do this by hand without damaging any other side parts with the
sander:

IMG00110-20130506-1527.jpg


I will do the other side in a week or so.

Next I started to clean up some of the glass, marquee, monitor cover and plastics etc:

IMG00113-20130507-2055.jpg


I then took a look at the lighting, as I noticed that the wiring for this had been cut by someone in the past
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. At first it wasn't obvious, by just looking in the cab how the lighting got power, so I downloaded the manual to see if that would assist

Now I'm a bit thick and find schematics fairly difficult to read, but it was clear that the power came from the same power that was going to the monitor (circled in red):

powerscheme.png


So I traced the power cables for the monitor and low and behold found where they had been snipped:

IMG00386-20121216-1107.jpg


At the same time I thought I would double check what voltage the cabinet was setup for. I thought this might have a bearing on ballast, starter for the lighting etc.

Now I was confused about the location of the power jumper and pinouts for ages based on the manual above. I could see that the power jumper had 12 pins (circled in orange), but there were two 12 pin sockets on the power board, and it wasn't easy to tell which one was J1

I eventually found the power jumper, but originally read the pins from left to right from the top but this did not tie up with the 220v settings of 4-8 and 7-9. I realised that the pinouts read from top to bottom and then left to right. As you can see mine is set for 220v:

IMG00117-20130509-2050.jpg


Next I need to take a look at the lighting components to figure out what I need

Purity2013-05-09 21:49:31
 

Purity

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forcefulfil said:
WOW Ben!
A full resto here dude!

keep the updates coming

Thanks dude. The plan was just to tidy it up a bit, rather than going for a full resto. It won't be in the same league as some of the awesome restorations I have seen on DLF, and on the web

The idea of documenting it is that I hope it helps someone else that might come across the same problems or have the same non-expert questions as I do.
 

Dex-Jay

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Cool! Stick with it! Looks like that D.A. (Orbital Sander) helped then! Its the way to go really.

If you need to fill anything use Automotive Filler not wood filler. I'm sure you were aware of that, but thought I'd mention it! Keep up the good work!
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Purity

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Dex-Jay said:
Cool! Stick with it! Looks like that D.A. (Orbital Sander) helped then! Its the way to go really.

If you need to fill anything use Automotive Filler not wood filler. I'm sure you were aware of that, but thought I'd mention it! Keep up the good work!
smiley32.gif

Yup the orbital sander did make a difference.

Now the filler, that's a interesting one. I usually use P38, but I've been having a few debates with people on here as to whether that is the most suitable of fillers for cabs. Some people swear by P38, but will automotive filler expand in the same way that wood filler does?

I was going to give a high performance wood filler a go, to see how it works out. It's still a two part filler, so not so different to P38

Purity2013-05-09 23:00:14
 

Purity

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So looking at the schemes for the monitor, the input on the K4900 Wells Gardner is 120v.

As the power to the monitor is shared with the lighting I can assume that the ballast will need to be 110-120v 15w 50hz, with a 110-120 starter. The rectifier supports 110-250v, so that's ok, as long as it is not dead.

I can only assume that by the current configuration (take a look at the ballast hanging loose
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) the 220v ballast on there was somehow connected directly to the mains, and would explain why the wires have been snipped.

8276630137_05609de172.jpg

Purity2013-05-13 19:23:51
 

Fuzzy

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Great resto taking place here, Ben.
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I only remember ever seeing a couple of these cabs BITD - both were in a huge arcade in Painton. Can't remember the name of the arcade, but I do remember they also had a Q*bert with a monitor sat on top of the cab so everyone could see the game being played. Oh, and Gorf.

Anyway, this is looking good!
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