Daytona Twin restoration
- Thread starter channel27
- Start date
I used to paint bolts but I found that they got scratched easily when they were tightened.
The black oxide coating doesn't scratch off
Everyone wear gloves / eye protection with the bluing though. The warnings on the side of the bottle sound like something from a horror film.
Some highlights...
- May cause breathing difficulties.
- Suspected of causing genetic defects.
- May cause cancer.
All things considered though... the bolts don't 'arf look good black!
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More assembly
The slave side is coming together. Just the pedals and the mains input tray to add. I’m going to concentrate on the master side for now, but putting the slave together means that its parts are not strewn all over the games room!
The slave side is coming together. Just the pedals and the mains input tray to add. I’m going to concentrate on the master side for now, but putting the slave together means that its parts are not strewn all over the games room!
No Surprise to me, We live in Chemical World, so many Chemicals since the war have been produced, toxic stuff in all manner of house hold products, gardening stuff like weedkillers, industrial businesses like Metal Cleaning using products being carcinogenic, you can search on pretty much any product like J&J Baby Powder and find a story like contained Asbestos, Chemicals in dry cleaning, a known performer apparently collapsed on stage one night, nearly died, it was the chemicals soaking into his skin and getting in his bloodstream. It's hardly any wonder so many people are ill these days and cancer is so bad when so much toxic stuff in the food tooI used to paint bolts but I found that they got scratched easily when they were tightened.
The black oxide coating doesn't scratch off
Everyone wear gloves / eye protection with the bluing though. The warnings on the side of the bottle sound like something from a horror film.
Some highlights...
- May cause breathing difficulties.
- Suspected of causing genetic defects.
- May cause cancer.
All things considered though... the bolts don't 'arf look good black!
View attachment 7399
CRTs and wiring
I had to swap out the degauss coil on one CRT as it was a different style than the other which meant that it wouldn’t push back far enough onto the tube-hugging side speakers. The original coil had a single wire running all around rather than a separate loop at the top and bottom. I hadn’t realised that these MS9s had two different types. You learn something new every day 🙂
Swapping out the degauss coil - Slipping the new coil’s fixing straps under the frame corners one at a time meant that I didn’t have to take the tube out of the frame completely.
CRT, pedal and the marquee wiring: -
As Daytona boots without checking everything is connected, it’s time for a quick test to check all is OK.
And…
IT’S ALIVE!!!
So just the steering, FFB, gears, dashboard buttons, sound and coin door wiring to go!
I had to swap out the degauss coil on one CRT as it was a different style than the other which meant that it wouldn’t push back far enough onto the tube-hugging side speakers. The original coil had a single wire running all around rather than a separate loop at the top and bottom. I hadn’t realised that these MS9s had two different types. You learn something new every day 🙂
Swapping out the degauss coil - Slipping the new coil’s fixing straps under the frame corners one at a time meant that I didn’t have to take the tube out of the frame completely.
CRT, pedal and the marquee wiring: -
As Daytona boots without checking everything is connected, it’s time for a quick test to check all is OK.
And…
IT’S ALIVE!!!
So just the steering, FFB, gears, dashboard buttons, sound and coin door wiring to go!
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K1ngarth3r
Active member
Looking really good!
Seat base cover
One of the covers was crumbling and beyond saving. The other had some water damage but is salvageable. I got a replacement for the crumbled one for Videotronics: -
First, strip it down and give it a good clean: -
I had to drill out a lot of the fixing as they were rusted up. This left the old bolts stuck fast in the rusted tee nuts so the staples were removed and the nuts knocked through from the front: -
The covers aren’t red on Daytona, so I found a dark grey vinyl to go over it. It’s supposed to be self adhesive wallpaper(!) but it’s advertised as durable and waterproof so I thought I’d give it a go. It’s got a very nice texture: -
The metalwork was sanded and polished from 120 grit down to 2500 and then finished off with a polishing compound on a drill attachment. It was then reassembled with all new fixings: -
I’ll need to piece in a new bit of wood on the other cover but at least I’ve now got somewhere to put the seat on the master side once it’s reassembled 😃
One of the covers was crumbling and beyond saving. The other had some water damage but is salvageable. I got a replacement for the crumbled one for Videotronics: -
First, strip it down and give it a good clean: -
I had to drill out a lot of the fixing as they were rusted up. This left the old bolts stuck fast in the rusted tee nuts so the staples were removed and the nuts knocked through from the front: -
The covers aren’t red on Daytona, so I found a dark grey vinyl to go over it. It’s supposed to be self adhesive wallpaper(!) but it’s advertised as durable and waterproof so I thought I’d give it a go. It’s got a very nice texture: -
The metalwork was sanded and polished from 120 grit down to 2500 and then finished off with a polishing compound on a drill attachment. It was then reassembled with all new fixings: -
I’ll need to piece in a new bit of wood on the other cover but at least I’ve now got somewhere to put the seat on the master side once it’s reassembled 😃
I was going to ask did you need one of those for the seat as I've got one that came off a machine I changed to Outrun 2 so it's got metal one, then I remembered it's got car engine sat on it currently
Bet your looking forward to having some driving sessions
Bet your looking forward to having some driving sessions
I was going to ask did you need one of those for the seat as I've got one that came off a machine I changed to Outrun 2 so it's got metal one, then I remembered it's got car engine sat on it currently
Bet your looking forward to having some driving sessions
Yes, getting really close now!
The next issue is finding the wiring loom between the base and the dashboard. I’m sure it’s all in the loft somewhere!
I converted an F355 to Outrun 2 a few years ago that had had its wiring butchered so I’m hoping I didn’t cannibalise the wiring for that…
ah that can be annoying, been there before, i have quite a bit of wiring from some Sega stuff over the years, had a Touring cars that I used for mame driver, if you get stuck I can see what i haveYes, getting really close now!
The next issue is finding the wiring loom between the base and the dashboard. I’m sure it’s all in the loft somewhere!
I converted an F355 to Outrun 2 a few years ago that had had its wiring butchered so I’m hoping I didn’t cannibalise the wiring for that…
Dashboard wiring
I’ve found the wiring and connected up the dashboard. One oddity was that none of the buttons on the button panel working (although the lamps did)…
I traced the problem back to the cage filter board where the ground wire wasn’t connected to the right pin internally. I assume that I used the wiring harness for a different game (Virtua Fighter or Cop?) when I put the stack together which uses different pins? It was a Head scratcher for a while. Note the ground pin moves down the connector.
Before: -
After: -
I’ve also got to the bottom of my overly loud volume problem; The potentiometer in my coin door wiring it only going to 2000 odd ohms rather than the full 5K. (Also, all 4 of the coin door switches for test and service didn’t work due to corrosion!) More pots and switches are on order.
I was rather surprised to have the force feedback working straight away. But if it’s anything like my Sega Rally, I won’t hold my breath that it’ll stay working for long! A boring calibration video (ignore that the plastic front isn’t on the dashboard yet!): -
I’ve found the wiring and connected up the dashboard. One oddity was that none of the buttons on the button panel working (although the lamps did)…
I traced the problem back to the cage filter board where the ground wire wasn’t connected to the right pin internally. I assume that I used the wiring harness for a different game (Virtua Fighter or Cop?) when I put the stack together which uses different pins? It was a Head scratcher for a while. Note the ground pin moves down the connector.
Before: -
After: -
I’ve also got to the bottom of my overly loud volume problem; The potentiometer in my coin door wiring it only going to 2000 odd ohms rather than the full 5K. (Also, all 4 of the coin door switches for test and service didn’t work due to corrosion!) More pots and switches are on order.
I was rather surprised to have the force feedback working straight away. But if it’s anything like my Sega Rally, I won’t hold my breath that it’ll stay working for long! A boring calibration video (ignore that the plastic front isn’t on the dashboard yet!): -
Calibration
The pedals and steering have been calibrated and I’ve had my first proper race! Came 20th… Rubbish!
Volume
The volume controls have been swapped out for new 5K linear pots. It’s still a bit on the loud side when turned right down but it’s still missing all of the rear panels and the dashboard so that’s not helping. The sound is coming from everywhere!
Next up will be refurbing the dashboard plastics. I’ve seen a restoration when the dash is sanded, filled and painted in satin black so I’ll probably go for that. I don’t mind age related marks but these dashes look like they’ve been used as the local arcade youth’s ashtrays 😡
DAAAYTOOONAAAAAAA!
The pedals and steering have been calibrated and I’ve had my first proper race! Came 20th… Rubbish!
Volume
The volume controls have been swapped out for new 5K linear pots. It’s still a bit on the loud side when turned right down but it’s still missing all of the rear panels and the dashboard so that’s not helping. The sound is coming from everywhere!
Next up will be refurbing the dashboard plastics. I’ve seen a restoration when the dash is sanded, filled and painted in satin black so I’ll probably go for that. I don’t mind age related marks but these dashes look like they’ve been used as the local arcade youth’s ashtrays 😡
DAAAYTOOONAAAAAAA!
Dashboard
The cigarette burns were really letting the side down so I decided to give repainting it a go as described over on Arcade Projects
Some “Before” pics
First off, grind out the burns and sand out the scratches
Next, bodywork filler, more sanding and masking up
The cigarette burns were really letting the side down so I decided to give repainting it a go as described over on Arcade Projects
Some “Before” pics
First off, grind out the burns and sand out the scratches
Next, bodywork filler, more sanding and masking up