Hanterex chassis to tv tube

[Retroman839]

I was
Please to see this vídeo color tube inside a tv

Hantarex it is then

Tb 2000 kindly offerd me a chassis for it ..


Animal kieser lcd out
CRT back in project …

Another project hanging in the wings Só time to add a chassis to this tube then finish it!

 

[tb2000]

I remember this, I think with the chassis I sent you (900/E if I remember correctly) I included the wiring needed to get it up and running. So should just be a matter of wiring up the power properly to the iso transformer and the yoke, degauss and rgb (and neckboard earth) wires and you should be good to go.

 

[Retroman839]

Hi ya mate ,
Yes Thats is the one ..Thanks
I have it here ,, and hope to get it wired up tomorow 👍

I remember this, I think with the chassis I sent you (900/E if I remember correctly) I included the wiring needed to get it up and running. So should just be a matter of wiring up the power properly to the iso transformer and the yoke, degauss and rgb (and neckboard earth) wires and you should be good to go.

 

[Retroman839]

This look familiar


110v isolation
For power ?


Not encounterd This type
Power in before , as not used one of these chassis before .

Ok got it 👍
Thin wires on this.

 

[Retroman839]

SanwA pfx yoke ?
In my spares ..

 

[tb2000]

128v is to run the chassis. 240v is just for the degauss. You need an isolation transformer for the 128v.

 

[Retroman839]

My options

 

[Retroman839]

I don’t know what this is
Assuming 240 to 110 v
Isolation ..

Would love to test it

If I was to test this tranny
I’m assuming I would add 240v hete

 

[tb2000]

110v will be just about in spec for the chassis. The other one looks to be 100v output for stuff like Japanese chassis, that will be too low for the Hanty. The MTC900/E service manual says the lowest it will work on is 108v so you might just about get away with running it on that one. You don't need the 220v/240v degauss input connected to power up the chassis just for testing. I'd wire up the 110v one and check what you're getting from the output before connecting it to the chassis though.

 

[Retroman839]

110v will be just about in spec for the chassis. The other one looks to be 100v output for stuff like Japanese chassis, that will be too low for the Hanty. The MTC900/E service manual says the lowest it will work on is 108v so you might just about get away with running it on that one. You don't need the 220v/240v degauss input connected to power up the chassis just for testing. I'd wire up the 110v one and check what you're getting from the output before connecting it to the chassis though.

Will do that in a bit

 

[big10p]

Are you sure that's an ISO and not just a regular transformer?

 

[Retroman839]

This one has 2 sets of windings só I think it’s iso

 

[Retroman839]

I have a big sega type of this is no good

 

[tb2000]

Going by the type of connectors used on that iso, it's probably had a WG chassis connected. I'd say that the three pin plug with two wires is the power input, and the two pin plug is the output. I can't remember which way round they're connected though, as in what colour is used for live and what is used for neutral. It's using USA wiring colours, probably worth looking in a WG K7000 manual for example.

 

[Retroman839]

Ok will check WG manual

Could be the midway type

 

[Retroman839]

View attachment 57890
This one has 2 sets of windings só I think it’s iso

The 2 pairs of 2 comomg
Off the secondary dont mater because there is no polarity from the secondary.

Brown = live
White = neuturel

Then om the multi 9 pin molex like 12v , 5v & neutural ?

 

[Retroman839]

Ok …
I do not know this transformer …

Rather than applying 240v
I decided to apply 120v
To be safe …

I’m getting 68v half what I want ?

Should I test it with 240 ?