Ok a few more updates. So the plan is to try and keep as much original as possible especially with all the electronics. I want to run everything using all the original parts and wiring where at all possible and keep the 100v internal feed voltage the same.
After doing more research and asking another collector it became apparent that my understanding of what transformer panel included in USA games was wrong and i should have have known better to be honest. For some reason, possibly because of 25 years working on pinball transformers i assumed wrongly that all transformer panels would have multi tap outputs so i could just change the input settings on the panel and still output the original 100v happily. Not the case here as because the r-type cab was domestic USA only the transformer is in fact only 90-120v input only. Probably saved Nintendo about 5p using a simpler model!! Grrrrrr. The manual also did not help much as it looked from the info on there that the transformer would supply either a 120v range OR a 240v range.
Also I released that the main power switch on the panel was actually shorted across so was on all the time!!
So first thing i did was to add a new mains line filter on the inbound cable. I'm using all the same connectors for anything new i'm adding so they will be no modification needed to any of the original wiring. This line filter 'assembly' plus into the existing cabling adding extra protection but makes no cuts to any original wiring.
Next was to check the mains power lead condition and install a new UK plug. Part of the mains cable was damaged towards the last foot near the plug end so i cut out that before changing the plug over.
Next up i've managed to source (thanks to Craig for the molex part number) some correct molex connectors for the internal game wiring so i can build a cable for the missing +5 and +12v power supply and use a switched mode one running from 240v in.
This is the switch mode psu i'm going to use for now. My plan is to source an original supply eventually but hoping this will work ok for now and is of reasonable quality. This can be run from 240v in so it will keep the load down on the internal 100v output transformer, so there are benefits here, but its not official or factory by any stretch!
PSU mains input cable using factory molex connectors
Here is the isolating transformer i have sourced that is 230v in and 100v output. (2 50v taps that can be connected in series) The spec is 200VA total so should be more than adequate for running the monitor and uv tube. If and when i get an original 5v/12v power supply then i may need to look at this again as the load may need to 300-320VA max for that.
