My first restoration; Initial D ver2
- Thread starter Vamino
- Start date
A small update.
I had a day off today, so I spent the morning dismantling what I could do by myself, and I also did a quick service on the pedal assy. The rest of the afternoon was spent transporting the cab into the house and rebuilding it back up.
Once I know everything is working fine, then I'll hopefully do a full restoration when time/funds permit.
Initially the pedals didn't look too bad....
After taking the cover off, it became apparent the pedals may have never been cleaned!
Yep, looks like these have never been opened....
The first clean, just to remove the excess shyte...
A bit better, but I really gotta get the base sandblasted and powercoated as the rust needs sorting out....
Well, thats me ready for when Simon hopefully drops off the coin tower/VTS board on Friday.
When taking it apart I didn't note where a couple of the earth cables attached to, ah well I'm hoping someone on here can help me out.
Like I said, it's more of a preliminary service than a restoration at this point, but hopefully I can get the cab in decent shape in the near future.
Cheers.
I had a day off today, so I spent the morning dismantling what I could do by myself, and I also did a quick service on the pedal assy. The rest of the afternoon was spent transporting the cab into the house and rebuilding it back up.
Once I know everything is working fine, then I'll hopefully do a full restoration when time/funds permit.
Initially the pedals didn't look too bad....
After taking the cover off, it became apparent the pedals may have never been cleaned!
Yep, looks like these have never been opened....
The first clean, just to remove the excess shyte...
A bit better, but I really gotta get the base sandblasted and powercoated as the rust needs sorting out....
Well, thats me ready for when Simon hopefully drops off the coin tower/VTS board on Friday.
When taking it apart I didn't note where a couple of the earth cables attached to, ah well I'm hoping someone on here can help me out.
Like I said, it's more of a preliminary service than a restoration at this point, but hopefully I can get the cab in decent shape in the near future.
Cheers.
forcefulfil
EDOT King
Great stuff!!
Nice job - the pedal boxes are always stuffed full of carpet fluff and other lovely stuff - one of the cleaner ones I've seen actually!!
The earth lead from the unit doesn't connect to anything - didn't in any of my cabs anyway.
Will be great when you can finally get the service panel etc and fire the cab up
The earth lead from the unit doesn't connect to anything - didn't in any of my cabs anyway.
Will be great when you can finally get the service panel etc and fire the cab up
Thanks guys.
>Gary:
Amazing just how much stuff gets inside the pedals, I can only imagine what condition the pedals are in on older cabs.
I'm really looking forward/dreading testing it tho, will everything be working or will I have to throw another couple of quid at it like Simon? I really hope the driver board and card reader work....
Well tonight I managed to get the lock off the card reader without drilling it out.
I hammered the hinge bar out at the rear of the casing, then prised it open just enough to be able to put a thin screwdriver on the nut that holds the lock onto the cabinetry, hammered the nut loose and loosened it off.....once that nut was loose enough the whole thing just opened....I also found a couple of cards in there too which was a bonus.
They wont last long tho, I'm really gonna cane this cab when it's up and running!
Cheers.
>Gary:
Amazing just how much stuff gets inside the pedals, I can only imagine what condition the pedals are in on older cabs.
I'm really looking forward/dreading testing it tho, will everything be working or will I have to throw another couple of quid at it like Simon? I really hope the driver board and card reader work....
Well tonight I managed to get the lock off the card reader without drilling it out.
I hammered the hinge bar out at the rear of the casing, then prised it open just enough to be able to put a thin screwdriver on the nut that holds the lock onto the cabinetry, hammered the nut loose and loosened it off.....once that nut was loose enough the whole thing just opened....I also found a couple of cards in there too which was a bonus.
They wont last long tho, I'm really gonna cane this cab when it's up and running!
Cheers.
Simon dropped off the coin tower today.
Initially the Naomi2 wouldn't boot, a quick google and I discovered the problem was a stuck fan.
After sorting that out, I eventually got the game to boot and tried playing.....the accel pedal wasn't allowing full accel but I think thats a calibration issue which is easily solved...
The good news is that the monitor, sound. card reader and force feedback appear to be working, the screen is not as bright as I want it....but, turning up the contrast or brightness causes the screen to flash/pulse white?
Also, when I first tested the game the graphics were glitching, green glitches kinda like when overclocking the ram too much on a GPU. I powered the unit down and went out.
Now when booting the Naomi is running super slow and flashing checkered glitches, it's now kinda like a stop frame movie, I've tried reseating everything to no avail. It seems like my Mainboard is knackered.
The fans are spinning freely and they are nice and clean now, so I don't think it's overheating. When I first cleaned it I did remove a LOAD of crap in the fans so it may have cooked itself to oblivion before I got it.
Has anyone else come across this type of error?
Cheers.
Initially the Naomi2 wouldn't boot, a quick google and I discovered the problem was a stuck fan.
After sorting that out, I eventually got the game to boot and tried playing.....the accel pedal wasn't allowing full accel but I think thats a calibration issue which is easily solved...
The good news is that the monitor, sound. card reader and force feedback appear to be working, the screen is not as bright as I want it....but, turning up the contrast or brightness causes the screen to flash/pulse white?
Also, when I first tested the game the graphics were glitching, green glitches kinda like when overclocking the ram too much on a GPU. I powered the unit down and went out.
Now when booting the Naomi is running super slow and flashing checkered glitches, it's now kinda like a stop frame movie, I've tried reseating everything to no avail. It seems like my Mainboard is knackered.
The fans are spinning freely and they are nice and clean now, so I don't think it's overheating. When I first cleaned it I did remove a LOAD of crap in the fans so it may have cooked itself to oblivion before I got it.
Has anyone else come across this type of error?
Cheers.
AndyGeezer
Active member
Checkboard and really slow is normally a bga fault.
Bin fodder generally.
Bin fodder generally.
AndyGeezer
Active member
Buying blind is always a gamble sadly.
Sorry to hear about the faults, but not hugely surprised as they're fairly common.
Pedal should be a simple fix - maybe you slipped the gears or moved something while cleaning out the pedal box..?
I had the monitor issue - try turning the 'Screen' pot down a touch (really, less than 1mm at a time). It should cure the flashing but will dull the image slightly - then try turning up the contrast/brightness. It's a bit of a balancing act which can work, but may just be incurable due to the tube. I ended up replacing mine with Nanao MS2932 - the quality of the picture is like night and day even though the Nanao units are a few years older!
Like Andy says, the chequerboard issue is usually terminal, but having said that I do have a Naomi2 that does this with iD, but plays Crazy Taxi without issue. Might be because CT is a Naomi1 game and doesn't use the extra beef available in the Naomi2. Or it could be that it's a cart and not using a dimm board. I should test it with 18 Wheeler and Route 66 to make sure..
Strange though, as even booting the board with no game installed at all results in the chequerboard effect - can't think why?
Keep persevering - it'll all be worth it in the end
Pedal should be a simple fix - maybe you slipped the gears or moved something while cleaning out the pedal box..?
I had the monitor issue - try turning the 'Screen' pot down a touch (really, less than 1mm at a time). It should cure the flashing but will dull the image slightly - then try turning up the contrast/brightness. It's a bit of a balancing act which can work, but may just be incurable due to the tube. I ended up replacing mine with Nanao MS2932 - the quality of the picture is like night and day even though the Nanao units are a few years older!
Like Andy says, the chequerboard issue is usually terminal, but having said that I do have a Naomi2 that does this with iD, but plays Crazy Taxi without issue. Might be because CT is a Naomi1 game and doesn't use the extra beef available in the Naomi2. Or it could be that it's a cart and not using a dimm board. I should test it with 18 Wheeler and Route 66 to make sure..
Strange though, as even booting the board with no game installed at all results in the chequerboard effect - can't think why?
Keep persevering - it'll all be worth it in the end
Thanks Andy, I've sent you an email.
Not what I expected to be honest, it does feel like they really don't care, I wont be using them again in a hurry...Simon has had it worse than me though, at least my Force feedback works and some ruffian didn't take a bit out of my steering wheel.
>Gary:
I hope this will be the last major thing to go for some time, after now having to buy another Naomi 2 board I'm into this for almost 1k....I'll try the monitor thing when I get the new Motherboard, it's no too bad but I want it nice for when I play it, y'know?
A couple more questions....
Does anyone know the dip switch setting on the VTS for accepting coins? I insert coins and the credit counter counts but no credits appear?
How do I recalibrate the accell/braking? Like Gary said I did disassemble the pedals and have mucked up the settings.
How do I set it to free play?
No doubt there will be even more questions late as and when I encounter something.
Well it decided to boot today, and this is what I get.....
Thanks again guys.
ZedEx48K said:Sadly it seems the seller of these ID cabs was a bit lose with the word 'working'
Not what I expected to be honest, it does feel like they really don't care, I wont be using them again in a hurry...Simon has had it worse than me though, at least my Force feedback works and some ruffian didn't take a bit out of my steering wheel.
>Gary:
I hope this will be the last major thing to go for some time, after now having to buy another Naomi 2 board I'm into this for almost 1k....I'll try the monitor thing when I get the new Motherboard, it's no too bad but I want it nice for when I play it, y'know?
A couple more questions....
Does anyone know the dip switch setting on the VTS for accepting coins? I insert coins and the credit counter counts but no credits appear?
How do I recalibrate the accell/braking? Like Gary said I did disassemble the pedals and have mucked up the settings.
How do I set it to free play?
No doubt there will be even more questions late as and when I encounter something.
Well it decided to boot today, and this is what I get.....
Thanks again guys.
ZedEx48K said:Tis easy, just move the pedal gear away from the pot, twist pot a little in the correct direction and rebuild! (test before putting it all back together though)
Cheers mate.
I've also found the option to adjust that in the service menu, I'll have to adjust the brake as it is right on the limit of the adjustment settings tho. (-40 I think)
Also found out how to put it in Free Play mode, option 27 in coin asignments.
I need to service the wheel and fit the new pot, and sort out the seat somehow to stop it from moving when I slam the pedals..
Do you (or anyone else) have any experience in servicing the wheel assy ans seat base?
The steering wheel itself is a bit wobbly on it's mount and needs tightening somehow.
Now onto the bizzare....I was playing the Glitchfest and after an hour or so it just sorted itself out!
I've been playing for a few hours without issues, still gonna get a new Mainboard tho as I simply don't trust this one tbh.
Cheers.
The seat base should be really easy, just 2 sliders, one side has a set of teeth that a seat adjust bar should fit into, I bet that part is broken or missing, clean/grease swap out or spot weld.
Sound like heat curing the board for a while because of a dry joint etc, before buying a replacement you could always heat gun it in the 'nothing to lose' scenario
Oh, the wheel could be as simple as the woodruff key needs replacing (spesh if it clonks a little at full lock either side).
ZedEx48K2013-10-13 08:38:12
Sound like heat curing the board for a while because of a dry joint etc, before buying a replacement you could always heat gun it in the 'nothing to lose' scenario
Oh, the wheel could be as simple as the woodruff key needs replacing (spesh if it clonks a little at full lock either side).
ZedEx48K2013-10-13 08:38:12
