My first restoration; Initial D ver2

[Outrun2]

..
The steering wheel itself is a bit wobbly on it's mount and needs tightening somehow.

Now onto the bizzare....I was playing the Glitchfest and after an hour or so it just sorted itself out!
I've been playing for a few hours without issues, still gonna get a new Mainboard tho as I simply don't trust this one tbh.

Cheers.

Have you taken the centre cap off the steering wheel and tightened the bolt that holds the wheel on? Should be as simple as that. There's about four (I think) allen head screws holding the cap on - some are plastic to look like real screws though so go steady

Yea, a spare main board is always useful - keep this one for testing purposes though. This is how one of mine looked on first power up. Things can go awry en-route - this cab was tested and shown working before it left the seller. The guy I got mine from was a top bloke though and sent another main board FOC

garysmith20012013-10-13 13:27:54

 

[Vamino]

Have you taken the centre cap off the steering wheel and tightened the bolt that holds the wheel on? Should be as simple as that. There's about four (I think) allen head screws holding the cap on - some are plastic to look like real screws though so go steady

Yea, a spare main board is always useful - keep this one for testing purposes though. This is how one of mine looked on first power up. Things can go awry en-route - this cab was tested and shown working before it left the seller. The guy I got mine from was a top bloke though and sent another main board FOC

Thats exactly what it was mate! Removed cap, tightened wheel.
All is well in the cosmos.

You were right as Well ZX, it looks like the parts to make the seat lock are missing.
Do you know where I can get the parts from? Has anyone got a pic showing how it's supposed to look like?

Also fitted a new pot to the steering assy, it looks like the motor was replaced in 2006 which is a nice surprise. The pot didn't need replacing tbh, but I did it anyway and will keep the spare in case one of the pedal posts start acting up in future.

While the Naomi2 board is working I've been happlily playing away.
Card reader works fine as the next pic shows.

I did notice my monitor shorting/making a sparking/cracking noise when first turned on, kinda like a cracking noise from the board I think. It goes away after a while when powered up, could that be a dry joint problem or something more sinister?
Also, would fitting a cap kit give me a slightly better image quality?

So, I do need to do a few things now.
1/ Replace the rubber stopper bush inside the wheel assy as it's started to crumble.
2/ Repair seat locking mech, or find somone who has one for sale.
3/ Buy a new Naomi 2 board.
4/ Sort out the dim start button lamp. (I'm not sure how to remove the bulb if possible, or if I need to buy a whole new button?)
5/ Cane the game!!!

I do need to do other things, but they are mainly superficial things tbh. I need to get some screws/fasteners etc.

Thanks again for all the help answering my question guys.

I can't believe I have the cab in my house, what a nice feeling it is.

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

I want an ID cab so bad , ill have to try and talk the missus round lol , are they still easy to get hold of ?

I was in the same situation as you mate, I've played the PS2 with GT force, PS3 with G25 and PSP versions...none of them come close to playing the Arcade game.

I dunno how rare they are tbh, but as the Initial D thread in the Wanted section shows, there may be a bit of a wait when putting a wanted ad for one.

Cheers.

 

[trev1976]

Oh well ill have to keep a look out for a cab eventually , is the cracking sound coming from the back of the monitor ? anode cap maybe ? just be carefull poking around there very high volts

 

[Vamino]

Oh well ill have to keep a look out for a cab eventually , is the cracking sound coming from the back of the monitor ? anode cap maybe ? just be carefull poking around there very high volts

Yeah, it's from the back section.
I can't pinpoint exactly where tho as I aint going near those electronics in case in goes pop, I flinch when I turn the adjustment dials as it is!

>Gary.
Forgot to mention, thanks also for the info for setting/adjusting the screen.
I set the brightness,contrast and screen to the middle and started to adjust them slowly, it's actually pretty nice now but the focus isn't as sharp as I remember playing when in Japan...could that be the that the Toshiba tubes are that superior to the one I have? Would a cap kit give a bit better sharpness/definition?

Cheers.

 

[ZedEx48K]

I did notice my monitor shorting/making a sparking/cracking noise when first turned on, kinda like a cracking noise from the board I think. It goes away after a while when powered up, could that be a dry joint problem or something more sinister?

Goodo on the seat, erm another seat rail will have one or if you can borrow one to get a metal works to fab you a new one, simple sprung bar really.

Cracking, it's prob the cap on the top back of the tube, remove clean, mebbe lube and replace (be careful voltages etc)

The start button bulb will be popping out the button, either pull from front or push from back, then should pop open easy enuf, will be wired from either a 5 or 12volt feed incase it's the wiring at fault.
ZedEx48K2013-10-13 19:05:00

 

[ZedEx48K]

the focus isn't as sharp as I remember playing when in Japan...could that be the that the Toshiba tubes are that superior to the one I have? Would a cap kit give a bit better sharpness/definition?

Cheers.

You can adjust the focus at the back of the chassis.

 

[IDCHAPPY]

I did notice my monitor shorting/making a sparking/cracking noise when first turned on, kinda like a cracking noise from the board I think. It goes away after a while when powered up, could that be a dry joint problem or something more sinister?

Goodo on the seat, erm another seat rail will have one or if you can borrow one to get a metal works to fab you a new one, simple sprung bar really.

Cracking, it's prob the cap on the top back of the tube, remove clean, mebbe lube and replace (be careful voltages etc)

The start button bulb will be popping out the button, either pull from front or push from back, then should pop open easy enuf, will be wired from either a 5 or 12volt feed incase it's the wiring at fault.

This, it happened to me the other day. I got an HV probe to discharge the tube just to be sure, cleaned and refitted the anode cap and its been fine since. I need to get the high insulation silicon grease on to it though

 

[Outrun2]

I don't think a cap kit will help the picture to be honest. You can try tweaking the Focus pot but you might find that if you cure the centre of the picture, then the corner will be out of focus- that's how it works I'm afraid. Still, good you managed some improvement on the colours.

If the bulb is dim it might be the wrong voltage/wattage for the unit or if you're really lucky could just be dirty! Unscrew the metal button plate from the front of the dash panel and pull it out. The buttons are fixed to the plate with a locking ring- turn the ring and release button/lamp assembly. Check the bulb and compare with the other working one on the plate (view change).

Looks like you're just missing the adjustment lever from your seat rail- they often get broken off. As mentioned you might be able to fabricate one. Easiest option is of course to buy a replacement but they don't come up often and they're stupid expensive to buy new! I have two sets of spare but both have missing levers like yours!

 

[Vamino]

Call me a div, but I'm not sure how to get to the bulb on the start button.

I've tried prising it open with a small screwdriver but it just wont seperate? It does have a little crack, so I may as well buy a new one. Maybe it is the wrong button for this cab?

Hmm, I'm gonna have to search for a seat lever then. If I knew what one looked like I could try and improvise, but alas, I can't see any pics on google etc.

Well the picture isn't too bad TBH, I've tried using the focus pot but this is the best I can get. It feels like it could be a bit sharper thats all, at least as sharp as my DC on my PC monitor using a VGA box? I guess I have been spoilt by my trusty Sony GDM-F900 24" CRT. I've had it for years now and it's a beast, but, I just can't let go.....

Thanks again guys.

Cheers.
Vamino2013-10-14 00:03:17

 

[Vamino]

I did notice my monitor shorting/making a sparking/cracking noise when first turned on, kinda like a cracking noise from the board I think. It goes away after a while when powered up, could that be a dry joint problem or something more sinister?

Goodo on the seat, erm another seat rail will have one or if you can borrow one to get a metal works to fab you a new one, simple sprung bar really.

Cracking, it's prob the cap on the top back of the tube, remove clean, mebbe lube and replace (be careful voltages etc)

The start button bulb will be popping out the button, either pull from front or push from back, then should pop open easy enuf, will be wired from either a 5 or 12volt feed incase it's the wiring at fault.

This, it happened to me the other day. I got an HV probe to discharge the tube just to be sure, cleaned and refitted the anode cap and its been fine since. I need to get the high insulation silicon grease on to it though

It scared the crap out of me when it first happened, I seen it spark and then thought it had blew up!
Where abouts is this anode cap guys? I'm a complete amateur as to what the terminology is regarding monitors.

Cheers.

 

[trev1976]

Heres the cap

also heres a guide how to remove a chassie (you only need the anode part)

When i get round to doing mine i was going to use a screwdriver and use a wire with 2x croc clips and attach one to the screwdriver and one to the frame , or i might invest in a HV probe , im like you , a little scared as ive never done it before

http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?p=20653

trev19762013-10-14 07:39:02

 

[Vamino]

Cheers for that Trev.

Hmm, I think I'd be alright doing that but it's still a scary prospect.
My monitor cracks a couple of times when first powering on, would this damage anything if I didn't sort it out soon?

Cheers.

 

[Vamino]

A little update.

The LOPT on my cab eventually got to the point where it sounded like a machine gun when the cab was powered on. So, I ordered a new one off Mo at a cost of 40 quid + shipping.

It was the first time I've ever discharged the Anode so I was a little scared/apprehensive, but I'm still here to tell the tale! After fitting the LOPT I initially thought the moniitor had completely packed up, it ended up being the Screen pot on the LOPT was turned right down.

Anyhoo, the monitor is back up and running and giving a decent picture, no different to the picture before but at least it isn't spewing sparks of plasma.

Old LOPT

New LOPT

I definately need to buy a decent soldering station with a desoldering iron to install the cap kit, I'm not tackling that until I get one.

Cheers.

 

[IDCHAPPY]

A little update.

The LOPT on my cab eventually got to the point where it sounded like a machine gun when the cab was powered on. So, I ordered a new one off Mo at a cost of 40 quid + shipping.

It was the first time I've ever discharged the Anode so I was a little scared/apprehensive, but I'm still here to tell the tale! After fitting the LOPT I initially thought the moniitor had completely packed up, it ended up being the Screen pot on the LOPT was turned right down.

Anyhoo, the monitor is back up and running and giving a decent picture, no different to the picture before but at least it isn't spewing sparks of plasma.

Old LOPT

New LOPT

I definately need to buy a decent soldering station with a desoldering iron to install the cap kit, I'm not tackling that until I get one.

Cheers.

Aye, the bum always twitches a wee bit when your prodding that anode cap

.

Well done with the LOPT though

 

[Deathrow]

I love threads like this, Great work!

 

[JohnnyChaos]

nice one.
I've not had any issues changing caps on these chassis using a solder sucker and low wattage iron. Just stuff like the HOT that's awkward

 

[Vamino]

Thanks guys.

My sphincter certainly had a mini workout when prodding the Anode, I wore rubber soled shoes as well just in case.

Once the cap kit arrives I'll see how I feel about tackling more soldering, I'm leaning towards leaving it until I disassemble the cab again tho, as I'll do a more thorough clean when getting the base sandblasted/powdercoated.

Now to tackle the slightly squeaky steering wheel when the FFB is tightned, it may be the belt slightly slipping/creaking as it's quiet when the FFB is off/loose. Think I'll try some platen cleaner and see if that works....

Cheers.

 

[Outrun2]

Nice work mate, I'm crap at soldering so wouldn't attempt this fix myself. I'm okay with making up wiring as I have the right tools now, but haven't learnt to solder properly.

How have I managed for 14 years in this hobby??!!

 

[Outrun2]

Had the seat off my cab earlier this week so took a couple of pics of the seat adjuster..