Space Harrier /OutRun DX Motor OpenBoard Project

[karlcdoe]

I understand your concern However, in this instance I am publically saying 'non conditional' and not expecting anyone else to chip in so you can spend it on beer if you like... The collective has doubtless already spent countless hours on 'free' consultancy time and the info has essentially already helped me fix my orig pcb. So hats off to all those involved.

 

[ColinD]

You have a few options to have the pcb made.... Seeedstudio , DirtyPCB's , All Pcb, Pcb way. I'm sure there are loads more. Shop around for the best price.

All pcb will do you 5 boards 250mm x 250mm for $63 including DHL shipping (Chances are DHL will do you for import duty which means an extra 20% plus £15 ish) !! - So.. under £75 for 5 boards delivered I think that's about as cheap as you will find.

EDIT - For 231mm x 131 mm (from your drawing) x 5 boards its $36 with free shipping !! - If you get taxed its still under £10 a board.

ColinD2018-06-14 12:24:33

 

[NaokiS]

I understand your concern However, in this instance I am publically saying 'non conditional' and not expecting anyone else to chip in so you can spend it on beer if you like... The collective has doubtless already spent countless hours on 'free' consultancy time and the info has essentially already helped me fix my orig pcb. So hats off to all those involved.

Good to know it's helped already!!

Tin, been checking your polys an aside from a few nitpick details they're perfectly fine.

I made a note about the Sega issues too

 

[tin]

I'm more than happy to chuck another unconditional £30 at this as well.

Regard my polys, just wanted to re-iterate I'm extremely green with all this, and any crisism/feedback/calling me an idiot greatfully received, so I can learn from this.

@John I think I understand what you mean, these kind of 4 little thin lines that CM makes from the poly to the component leg? I was wondering about them, and how to change. I will investigate.

@NaokiS tell me what the nickpick details were? Just so I can avoid doing again! thanks.

<edit> oh and loading the cost of a real eventual PCB to cover costs incurred in development more than acceptable IMHO.

tin2018-06-14 13:13:13

 

[Jodo]

Guys. Great progress!

I have a spare set of two Harrier Dlx DC motors that I’ll supply on loan to whoever needs them when we get to testing the proto on a bench - if that helps? They are *heavy* but I should be able to construct a box strong enough to ship them next day.

 

[NaokiS]

I'm more than happy to chuck another unconditional £30 at this as well.

Regard my polys, just wanted to re-iterate I'm extremely green with all this, and any crisism/feedback/calling me an idiot greatfully received, so I can learn from this.

@John I think I understand what you mean, these kind of 4 little thin lines that CM makes from the poly to the component leg? I was wondering about them, and how to change. I will investigate.

@NaokiS tell me what the nickpick details were? Just so I can avoid doing again! thanks.

<edit> oh and loading the cost of a real eventual PCB to cover costs incurred in development more than acceptable IMHO.

Just sone chamffering that was on the original board but not in your poly and just some tweaks to the size to match Sega's. Otherwise was pretty good

 

[John Bennett]

Is there a multi-quote button somewhere?

Karl, Tin - thank you very much for the donation offers

- I'll make a start of doing pricings properly and then I'll start a paypal collection pot and contact you (and with a bit of luck it'll just be a loan or I'll put it to use for something group-related).

Colin, to be honest, I'd just gone straight to PCB Train for the initial prices, so if what you say is correct, it's massively cheaper. I'll certainly look into that company you suggest - thanks!

Jodo - thank you for the motor offer. However, at the moment I'm hoping that I might be OK - it doesn't need 80V to test the functionality, so I'll use a lower voltage transformer with a small DC motor. I'll have to try it on a real cabinet at some point anyway to see how it works with a full system (where it's loaded up and the limit switches are present), so I should be OK without a real motor until then.

Also, the real board was only really of use for ensuring things were in the exact place (I've no real need to do experiments on one), so as Tin has one to compare to, I don't foresee any need for me to get ahold of one

. I just need a full cabinet to test it all on at some point

John Bennett2018-06-14 21:35:52

 

[John Bennett]

@John I think I understand what you mean, these kind of 4 little thin lines that CM makes from the poly to the component leg? I was wondering about them, and how to change. I will investigate.

I've had a look and you can't specify the thermal relief for each polygon by right clicking.
What I think we've got to do is go into the design rules and create a rule for every net we've got a polygon on (as some want thermal reliefs, others don't). Fortunately there's not many.
I've done it for a couple so far.
I might name some of these power nets in the schematic as it makes it easier to find them in the drop-down list of nets.
Repour all polygons to update.

I can sort it tomorrow if it's too daunting.

 

[John Bennett]

Oh and don't spend any time tidying the routing around ICs 6 and 7

We're probably going to have to go to a 24-pin 22V10 GAL...

A couple of reasons, but the main one is the triac equations are too long to fit in (too many 'product terms', which I believe is too many OR'd items).

Hanging it one pin over each side works best and we can still double-pin it for the original device. I'll get it to compile into a 20V10, then I'll update the schematic and wreck the PCB

(I'm learning as I go along too...)

edit: You should still also be able to put our new GAL into an original board, you'll just have to make a little adaptor with a turned pin socket and 2 bits of wire.John Bennett2018-06-15 17:18:49

 

[tgates]

Is there a multi-quote button somewhere?

Karl, Tin - thank you very much for the donation offers

- I'll make a start of doing pricings properly and then I'll start a paypal collection pot and contact you (and with a bit of luck it'll just be a loan or I'll put it to use for something group-related).

Colin, to be honest, I'd just gone straight to PCB Train for the initial prices, so if what you say is correct, it's massively cheaper. I'll certainly look into that company you suggest - thanks!

Jodo - thank you for the motor offer. However, at the moment I'm hoping that I might be OK - it doesn't need 80V to test the functionality, so I'll use a lower voltage transformer with a small DC motor. I'll have to try it on a real cabinet at some point anyway to see how it works with a full system (where it's loaded up and the limit switches are present), so I should be OK without a real motor until then.

Also, the real board was only really of use for ensuring things were in the exact place (I've no real need to do experiments on one), so as Tin has one to compare to, I don't foresee any need for me to get ahold of one

. I just need a full cabinet to test it all on at some point

Like Karl and Tin I also would be very happy to donate to cover prototype costs . Maybe include a target amount with your paypal donation pot ? Anyway awesome work and a cracking read .

 

[John Bennett]

Thank you

Colin's suggested a company that'll do 5 PCBs for 36 USD, so the way it's looking the target would now be exceedingly low. I feel a bit daft now for thinking £90 was reasonable for a single prototype

In the next week or so I'll see if there's any other expenses where a small money pot will come in useful - might need a few bits for a test harness, plus might end up wasting a few quid if the first boards don't work 100% (due to things we've missed) and need too much modding to be sold on (hopefully not)

Oh, while I'm at it - Australia!

Do you think there'll be anyone on your side of the planet who'll be interested? (we'll do a bit of proper 'advertising' for pre-orders once I've got something working, I think).John Bennett2018-06-15 20:00:01

 

[clarkey]

I will be up for contributing to a donation pot so PM me if you are taking in donations.

 

[tgates]

I'm sure there will be a few aussies interested in this board . What other games could use this motor controller board , G loc perhaps? Most G loc deluxes no longer move because the driver boards can no longer be repaired due to obsolete parts.

 

[NaokiS]

I'm sure there will be a few aussies interested in this board . What other games could use this motor controller board , G loc  perhaps? Most G loc deluxes no longer move because the driver boards can no longer be repaired due to obsolete parts.

Wonder if it's just as simple as a wiring adaptor?

 

[John Bennett]

Clarkey - thank you - I'll let you know

G-LOC looks rather different unfortunately. Funny looking board - bendy tracks that look like they're from the 70's, but looks like it uses power transistors rather than triacs (so more modern tech)

https://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=36585.0

(includes further links, albeit in French)

With G-loc (and pretty much anything really), it depends what schematics are out there or how easy it is to get ahold of a PCB. Oh and what demand there is. Nothing unclonable there I can see though.
John Bennett2018-06-16 16:52:11

 

[John Bennett]

Ok, in case anyone looks on in horror, I've put in alternative pinouts for a GAL22V10, so it'll do the original 153 PAL or one of these (the intended pin-for-pin 16V8 won't work). The 22V10 basically adds 4 more pins off the original IC.

Annoyingly, we need a couple of headers too to remap 2 pins.

I don't think it makes the board look too bad visually, but I've only had the chance to partially re-route it and the best place for the headers cuts through the nice power polygon underneath, so if anyone feels like finishing/tidying-up the routing, whilst keeping it in a Sega style, please do!

 

[tin]

I'll definitely have a look at the routing if someone doesn't beat me to it.

on a different, previously brought up point, the RadMobile board looks radically (see what I did there?) different....

tin2018-06-16 23:00:08

 

[John Bennett]

I got a bit carried away and did a bit more of the routing, although it definitely could do with more pairs of eyes.
Sadly I've broken the 5V polygon with the new 4-way jumper - it'll still work, but if there's a way to rejoin it, then great.

I'll try to sort out the capacitors on the triac drivers tomorrow - they're too narrow so we can't clone the original routing for the triac circuit. Otherwise it's getting very close to done.

Good to know that G-LOC is the same as RadMobile. Is that your PCB?

 

[tin]

Oh wow I hadn't read the link you posted before for the GLOC thread on gamoover, can't believe it's the same! Yes that's my board. Not a clue if it works atm.

 

[NaokiS]

The GLoc looks much more simpler in terms of operations, just give it simple left orright and the analog stuff drives the motor